Spiti Trip 3-12 June 2023 (7N8D)
For a long time, I longed for visiting Lahaul Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh as I had heard a lot about the said region and about the villages therein and had seen many vlogs of that region and the names like Nako, Tabo, Rekong Peo, Kaza, Chitkul, Hikkim, Komic, Chandratal, Batal, Chhatru, Gramphoo, Atal Tunnel, etc. used to reverberate in my mind. At the same time, I had this fear whether I would be able to do this trip given the fact that most of these places are above 12000 ft and are accessible only through circular serpentine journey in mountains which might cause AMS and headache and also the weather there is unpredictable and landslides and heavy rains may occur anytime making the mountainous journey very risky. I recently had problem in Arunachal Pradesh while going to Mayodia Pass (8711 ft) due to cocktail of diesel fumes, bright sun and high altitude. So, I was a little doubtful. But this time I was determined to go as otherwise it might have created a fear psychosis in me for all times to come, in doing high altitude trips and treks.
I contacted Mr. Hitin Koul (7889773130) who used to run D’Roamers which specialised in tours of Lahaul spiti and Leh Ladakh. But he told that he has moved out and he gave me number of one Kuldeep (9999076635) for spiti trip. Kuldeep, in turn, connected me to one Mr. Kunal Sood (9015399687), marketing manager of Tiri Ratna Tour & Travel, which reportedly specialise in organising tours in Lahaul Spiti and Leh Ladakh region. I booked for two persons – me and Amit Burman- the 7N8D trip at cost of Rs.19,900/- per person which included Volvo bus journey from Delhi to Shimla and from Manali to Delhi and travel through Tempo Traveller throughout the trip and overnight stay for 7 nights, with 7 breakfasts and 7 dinners.
Day 0 : 3.6.2023 Saturday : Overnight journey from Delhi to Shimla
Finally, the day came. Me and Amit boarded the Volvo bus of Laxmi Holidays from near Gate no.4 of Kashmere Gate Metro Station, Delhi at 11.25 pm. It was a very luxurious bus, having thigh support, mobile charging point at each set of two seats, seats in 2x2 arrangement, overhead place for handbags, neat blankets, free water bottle and ample leg room. (In future, always try to travel by Volvo buses of Laxmi Holidays, the experience by return journey through Volvo of Travel Point was bad). We had carried suitcases which were kept in the boot space of the bus. On the way, the bus stopped for about 30-40 min at Shiva Dhaba (Mama Yadav) at Murthal for dinner at about 1 am.
Day 1 : 4.6.2023 Sunday : Shimla to Narkanda / Dutt Nagar
At about 6.15 am in the morning, the bus stopped at a roadside dhaba at Dharampur for tea where some freshened up. This dhaba was a bad choice for halt as it had shabby condition.
At 9.15 am, we reached our destination i.e. bus stand, Shimla. We met our tour coordinator Salil Singha (8988612726) (a 28-29 year young chap) and Tempo Traveller driver Bhanu (9816419662) there. We took our suitcase to the Tempo traveller, and the duo then fit the luggages on the carrier on top of the vehicle. I had taken care to carry all things necessary for journey in my hand bag like Herbalife shake pouch, shaker, medicines, goggles, specks, power bank, headphone, mobile charger, jacket, muffler, cap, topi, hand towel, comb, dry fruits and toffees, so that I don’t have to open the suitcase again and again tucked and tied on top of vehicle. All tempo travellers were neatly parked in the parking area which was a cemented area down from the road by about 10 ft.
There was a good restaurant in this parking complex by the name “The Horizon” (9736571421). We used the washrooms (which were neat and clean) in this restaurant and freshened up. Amit took parantha while I took Afresh and Herbalife shake. There were simultaneously two groups in two Tempo Travellers. Our Tempo Traveller had 11 members plus one coordinator plus one driver. It was 13 seater Tempo Traveller. The driver Bhanu was the owner of this vehicle. He told that he recently purchased it and it has clocked only about 5000 km so far ! The vehicle was clearly a new vehicle and was neat and clean and well maintained. We were delighted to see this. We met with our co-travellers. They were Mamta Wadhwa, Nitasha Singla, Poonam (all three from Chandigarh), Sunita Popli (solo, French teacher from Karnal), Pooja Bhasin (solo from Mumbai), Munish Singla and his wife Monika and daughter Vrinda (7th class) and son Madhav (5th class) (from Patiala). The co-ordinator in other Tempo was Jatin Chauhan (9296000307), a 23-24 years young chap.
At about 10 am, both the Tempo Travellers started from Shimla bus stand.
At 11.40 am, we stopped at a dhaba for food, near Kufri. We took roti, subzi, salad and curd.
Further on the way, we savoured cherrys being sold by a vendor on roadside after plucking from the cherry farms nearby. We also stopped by a dhaba called ‘Siyaram Siddu’ and savoured local dish “siddu” there.
Taking appropriate breaks on the way and enjoying the scenic valleys on either side of the road, slowly, we left the hustle and bustle of the city behind and drove through Kufri, Fagu, Narkanda on an amazing stretch of the old Hindustan Tibet (aka old HT road).
At 5.45 pm, we reached Hotel Mahesh at Dutt Nagar (Mr. Rahul : 9218544255, 9857276928, 8894320255, 9218644255) (Dutt Nagar is about 55 km ahead of Narkanda, the other group stayed at Narkanda). The address at Hotel’s visiting card read as “Jhakri, Rampur Bushahr (situated on NH-5)”. Duttnagar is a Village in Rampur Tehsil in Shimla District of Himachal Pradesh State, India. It is located 59 KM towards East from District head quarters Shimla. 12 KM from Rampur. 59 KM from State capital Shimla. This Place is in the border of the Shimla District and Kullu District. Shimla, Sundarnagar, Mandi, Solan are the nearby Cities to Duttnagar.
We were allotted our rooms in the hotel. Me and Amit were allotted room on 2nd floor. We freshened up and relaxed.
We (me and Amit) settled in our room and enjoyed our music in our room.
At 9.15 pm, we all 11 members met in the dining hall on the ground floor and had dinner together. It was windy and raining outside. The weather had really become very pleasant and cool.
Me and Amit strolled within the hotel and then went to sleep.
Day 2 : 5.6.2023 Monday : Dutt Nagar (Rampur) to Chitkul
We got up at 7 am. Me and Amit took Afresh (green tea). I took my nutrition shake and also logged on to the zoom session of Herbalife on mobile while we both got ready and packed our luggage.
At 9 am, we all took breakfast in the dining hall. We also met Mr. Kunal Sood (9015399687), the marketing manager of Tiri Ratna Tour & Travels. We made the payment of balance amount to him here (earlier we had paid 3k per person).
At 10 am, we bid bye bye to our hotel and started in Tempo Traveller from Hotel Mahesh, Dutt Nagar, Rampur.
After sometime, we passed by confluence (sangam) of Sutlej river and Baspa river. From here, we moved along Baspa river (earlier we were moving along Sutlej river).
At 11.15 am, we stopped at a Shiva temple in Jeori on Jeori-Sarahan Road. We offered water on the shivling. There was hot water well / spring within the complex of this temple. A water channel from the well culminated into a kund where 2-3 boys were taking bath in hot water. We spent about 20 min here. (Bhaba Nagar was further 26 km from here, Tapri 45 km, Sangla 71 km and Chitkul 95 km).
At about 12.30 pm, we stopped at a waterfall by the side of the road in District Kinnaur. I dipped my crocs-wearing feet in the cold water accumulated from the waterfall. It was such a beautiful view and nice feeling.
At about 6 pm, we reached Sangla. Sangla has the last liquor shop / theka on this side of India. After this place, no liquor is allowed to be sold as this road is further going to Chitkul which is the last border village with Tibet and entry is restricted there. We roamed in the Sangla market for sometime. We realised we were taking too many stoppages. It was getting dark. So, we hurried up so that we reach Chitkul in time. After Sangla, we crossed Rakchham.
The last about one hour drive to Chitkul was in dark using vehicle’s headlights.
At 8.15 pm, we reached Dev Cottages & Camps, Chitkul (Mr. Naresh Kumar 9805657728). It was a nice site, almost at the end of Chitkul. It had swiss tents having beds and attached toilets. It started getting very cold, as the rain started. Me and Amit enjoyed music, sang, danced in our tent and later took dinner in our tent, as it was raining and cold outside. We then fell asleep at 11 pm.
Chitkul, at an altitude of about 11,320 ft (3450 mtr) above sea level, is the last inhabited village on Indian side near the Indo–Tibetan border and the motorable road ends here. The village of Chitkul is very picturesque, like something from a fairy tale. There is dead end after Chitkul. So, for going to other places in Spiti valley, one has to return back to Karchham (after crossing Sangla).
Day 3 : 6.6.2023 Tuesday : Chitkul to Kalpa
At 5.30 am, I woke up. It was cold outside. Me, Munish and his little son walked to ITBP Check-post. It took us about 30 min to reach there. It is the last point upto which the civilians are allowed to go. The Tibet border is 70 km away from here, as told by the ITBP soldier Aditya 8168117505 (from Karnal) deputed there.
Day 4 : 7.6.2023 Wednesday : Kalpa to Tabo
Day 5 : 8.6.2023 Thursday : Tabo to Kaza
After some time, we spotted a hanging bridge over the river on the left hand side. We got down to the bridge and clicked pictures here against beautiful background. We spent about 20 min here. At 11.50 am, we passed by village Shichling.At 12.20 pm, we reached Dhankar monastry. Dhankar used to be the Seat of the King in ancient times. It was such a beautiful view of the monastry from a distance in the mountains as we were approaching the monastery. It looked as if entire monastery is hanging on a cliff edge, with snow clad mountains in the backdrop, and overlooks the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. We parked the vehicle there and walked to the monastery. At one end, one could see the valley with river flowing across it on the ground. It was such a beautiful riot of colors all around us in nature. We clicked some really stunning pictures here.
We took lunch at a restaurant here, which had neat and clean washroom.
At 2.10 pm, we started from Dhankar monastry.

Day 6 : 9.6.2023 Friday : sightseeing in Kaza (Langza, Komic, Hikkim, Ki Monastry, Chicham bridge, kibber village)








Day 7 : 10.6.2023 Saturday : Kaza to Chandratal


At 12.40 pm, we started.








Day 8 :11.6.2023 Sunday : Chandratal to Manali to Delhi


















