Sar
pass Trek (May-June 2014)
(National
Himalayan Trekking Expedition organized by YHAI)
The
Himalayas were again beckoning me as it was quite a long time since I trekked
in Himalayas. The grandeur of Himalayas is always a fascination for me.
So,
in 1st week of April 2014, I booked online, at YHAI website, for the
SAR PASS trek for me and my friend Amit Burman (@ Rs.4247/- per person) and we
managed to get booking for reporting date of 26th May 2014 (the
online status of bookings was all full). Later, my wife’s sister’s son Aman
Beriwal and Amit’s friend Pankaj Jain also joined. I had earlier done Sar Pass
Trek in 1991 and 1998.
About
a month before the departure, I made my morning walks more regular and I also
joined the Gym, so as to maintain the stamina for the trek.
Two
three days before departure, I purchased the necessary things and set rolling
for the D-day.
Day 0 : 25th
May Sunday : Delhi to YHAI Base camp at Kasol (Himachal Pradesh)
At
4.30 pm in the evening, I and Aman started from my home in Punjabi Bagh, Delhi.
We met Amit Burman there. We boarded Volvo bus 2x2 near Ambedkar Bhawan, opp
Videocon tower, Jhandewalan, Delhi. I had booked Volvo bus tickets of Aashiana
Travels in advance on 21.5.2014 through the website travelyaari.com @ Rs.1100/-
per person for journey from Delhi to Kullu. The scheduled departure time was
5.30 pm and arrival time in Kullu was 4.30 am next day.
At
6 pm, the Volvo Bus started from Ambedkar bhawan. It halted at Majnu Ka Tila
for 5 min. to pick up other passengers. The chairs in the bus were reclining,
with thigh support. It was semi-sleeper Volvo.
As
we crossed Murthal, at about 7.40 pm, it started raining heavily. At 8.40 pm,
the bus halted for 45 min at Karnal for dinner at Punjabi Deluxe dhaba. At 11.45
pm, the bus picked 8 passengers from Chandigarh. We thereafter reached Kiritpur,
and then the Himachal Pradesh border. From here, the ascent starts. The new
driver took over from this point. The road position was bad for few km in
starting from here. We slept in the bus.
Day 1 : 26th
May 2014 Monday : Kasol
At
6 am in the morning, our Volvo bus crossed Mandi (place in Himachal Pradesh).
After
moving about 12 km from Mandi, at 6.30 am, our bus halted at Beas View Guest
house n Bhojnalaya, which is 5 km short of Pandoh. We freshen up and took tea and
biscuits here. Bhuntar was still 45 km and Manali was 100 km from here.
At
8.30 am, we got down at Bhuntar. It seemed that the early morning cold air of
the mountains had got into my head, which made me temporarily unwell leading to
vomiting when we got down at Bhuntar. I rested for about half an hour at
Bhuntar, so that I stabilize, before starting onward journey to base camp at
Kasol.
At
9.30 am, we boarded local bus from Bhuntar bus stand to Kasol (@ Rs.45/- per
head), which ply almost every half hour. Bhuntar to Kasol is about 30 km and it
takes about 1 to 1 ½ hours by bus.
At
10.45 am, we got down at YHAI base camp at Kasol (the bus was going further to
Manikaran which is 4 km further from Kasol).
It
was the same camp where I stayed during my last Sar Pass trek in 1998. It was
several feet below the road level. The temporary stairs made of stone slabs led
us to the reception of the base camp. Mohini, a young girl, was managing the
reception. We filled check in forms. We met Pankaj jain who had reached 10 min
back. We all four shifted to the group SP-25 (instead of SP-26). I took bath.
There are constructed toilets and bathrooms at base camp, separate for girls
and boys. There was a big tented area near the reception which was used for
orientation meetings, camp fire etc. Further down, there were rows of tents on
both sides. The participants live in these tents during their stay at base
camp. They are provided two blankets each. Further down, is the house of the
owner of this land (in which base camp tents are erected every year). A portion
of his house is used as cloak room for storing the extra luggage of the
participants.
At
12.30 pm, we four (I, Aman, Amit and Pankaj) went to the market in Kasol, which
is 5 min walk. There were lots of foreigners, mainly Israelis. Kasol has
changed over the years. Last time when I was here in 1998, there used to be
only one or two small shops selling basic necessity goods. Now, so many shops and
hotels and guest houses have come up here. It is a huge market now. Infact, as
I discovered later during my stay here, Kasol is on the way of becoming another
hill station in Himachal Pradesh, after Manali. We took Chinese food in an open
eatery (Namaste Cafe). At 2 pm, we returned to the base camp. We sat in our
allotted tent (Tent No.4) and gossiped with other participants.
At
the entrance, near the reception, there was a temporary platform made of wooden
plank on which electricity connection with some multi-plugs was provided. The
participants were charging their devices (camera, mobiles etc.) here.
At
3 pm, there was orientation lecture for the SP-25 group by the Field Director
Shri P.K.Savani (Adv from Gujarat) and Co-Field Director Shri Mool Singh
Rathore (Govt teacher from Rajasthan, 09461501754). It is Mr. Savani’s last
trek as Field Director. Mr. Mool Singh Rathore was camp leader, perhaps in last
camp, during my Jaiselmer Trek in November 2007. They were assisted by camp
leaders at base camp including M.B.Balaji (Mob no. 08902364480, 08961436348) (affectionately
called ‘Dada’) from Calcutta who is generally a camp leader in Sandakphu trek. Mr.
Savani is leaving tomorrow, leaving the command to Mr. Mool Singh Rathore.
They
gave us useful tips about the whole trek : what to wear, what to take up with
us in our rucksack in the trek, what are the obstacles and difficulties we may
face during trek and how to overcome them, etc.
After
the orientation, we strolled in the market. At 5 pm, we returned to the base
camp as we were being issued the rucksack, two blankets and one inner sheet.
At
8 pm, camp fire was organized (without any fire !) under the big tent, which
was attended by participants of group SP-24, SP-25 and SP-26. Our group SP-25
was the organizer (Master of Ceremonies was Ananth 08657350847
ananth02@gmail.com from our group).
Since
we were initially booked for SP-26 but changed to SP-25, we missed
acclimatization walk of SP-25 which was in the morning today. Mr. Shoban (from
Bangalore, 09845901968) was chosen as the Group Leader of SP-25 during the
same. He has his business of Service Apartments in Bangalore.
At
9.30 pm, the bournvita was served and the camp fire came to an end. At 10 pm,
lights off. We gossiped with other participants in the tent. In our tent, few
participants of SP-26 were also staying. We were 8 persons in one tent.
Day 2 : 27th
May 2014 Tuesday : Kasol
The
morning tea was served at 5 am. All participants of SP-25 and SP-26 assembled
in the campus area of base camp at 5.30 am and walked about 1 km to a huge
ground adjoining a hotel. The morning exercises were conducted here by the
instructors Mr. Lakshmi (with long hairs), Mr. Banu Bhandari (09816144221) and Mr.
Manoj. (These guys also organize private treks).
At
7.30 am, we returned to the base camp. At 8.15 am, participants of SP-25 and
SP-26 lined up to see off and cheer members of SP-24 group who were leaving
base camp and going to higher camps.
At
9 am, we members of SP-25 walked about 1 ½ km through the market to nearby
jungle. The same three persons/instructors who conducted exercise in the
morning, conducted rock climbing
session. Mr. Lakshmi explained us the importance of rock climbing and rappling
devices like carabiner, harness (rope), descender, helmet. Almost all members
did rock climbing. In this, one would use the tips of his fingers and toes to
climb up through the minute crevices in the rock. To ensure that he does not
get injured if he falls, he is tied by a rope harness and carabiner whose
control is with the instructor sitting at top of the rock.
At
about 1 pm, we all returned to the base camp and had lunch.
After
the rappling session was over, at about 4.30 pm, we all roamed in the market.
Few bought rain coat as it was to become very handy during rains while trekking
to higher camps. I, amit and Pankaj went to Manikaran (4 km, 10 min bus journey
from Kasol) and I bought new shoes as my liberty trekking shoe’s (gliders)sole
had broken in the morning.
At
5.30 pm, we returned to the base camp. We stuffed essential items and clothings
in the rucksack provided by YHAI and deposited the remaining/extra luggage in
the cloak room of base camp. The camp leaders at base camp checked everyone’s
rucksack and advised to further reduce the weight by removing unwanted articles
like shaving kits, cosmetics, food articles etc. While trekking at height, the weight
of the stuff in the rucksack becomes very important : the more the weight, the
more the strain and unease during trekking.
Dinner
was served at 8 pm. After that, I, Amit and Pankaj, after taking permission of
the field Director, went to the market and booked return Volvo tickets from
Bhuntar to Delhi for 4th June (Rs.1100/- each). After that, we
returned to the base camp where camp fire was going on. At 10.30 pm, lights
out. We all were thrilled and excited at the thought of moving to higher camps
tomorrow.
Day 3 : 28th
May 2014 Wednesday : Kasol base camp to Grahan
We
all woke up at 6 am in the base camp and deposited the blankets and sleeping
bag. Took bath and freshen up. Then we all took breakfast.
At
8 am, we members of SP-25 assembled in the campus area. We were total 43
participants in SP-25 (31 boys, 12 girls). Mr. Shoban was the Group leader. I
happened to be the most experienced person in the group, having done almost all
the treks of YHAI and having done this trek twice in the past.
At
8.30 am, the members of SP-26 and SP-27 alongwith camp leaders and Field
director at base camp cheered us while we walked out in line to go to the
higher camps. Each member was given YHAI cap and a packet containing frooti,
biscuit packet and toffees. It has become sort of customary for the members to
devise a slogan for their respective groups. Our group members had devised the
slogan “UP UP IN THE SKY, SP TWENTY FIVE”. One thing remarkable about our group
was that almost all were youngsters and more than 80% were first time trekkers.
Infact, I happened to the 2nd oldest member of the group after
Pankaj Jain ! Aman was the youngest member of the group.
The
guide who accompanied us for today’s trek from Kasol to Grahan was Mr. Jaichand
(09816473518). He is resident of Kasol. He also organises private treks.
We
walked though the Kasol market and then took a detour from the market into the
jungle. It was an up and down journey from Kasol to Grahan. We rested at few
points. After crossing two wooden bridges, we rested for about 45 minutes at a
point and played antakshri. The guide advised that we are not supposed to enter
the next camp before 3 pm and that we can therefore go leisurely.
At
about 1 pm, we all sat at a point and took lunch. I do not relish the packed
lunch provided by the YHAI and thus I do not take the pack lunch and instead
eat the stuff sold by some enterprising village persons on the way. There was a
make-a-shift stall put up by the village lady alongwith her son Dinesh. Her
husband Ram Lal (who is accredited with the famous folk song of Grahan : meri sridevia katthe chali tu) has gone
with a private group to Mantalai trek. Dinesh has cleared 12th class
exams this year and he wants to do course in tourism. They were selling egg,
omlette, Maggie and packed foods like chips, frootie, cold drinks etc. We took
6 boiled eggs (@ Rs.15/- per egg) and two egg bhurji (@ Rs.30/- per egg).
At
about 2 pm, we again started walking. From here, the guide was one Mr. Maniram
of Grahan village. He informed that this year, the snow in Hinachal Pradesh is
unprecedented and has broken all records. He told that he is 50 years old and
he has not seen this much snow in his village in his entire life (this year, 6
ft snow in village Grahan in December-January compared to about 3 ft usually).
He further told that there is huge snow this year at Sar Pass.
After
walking for about 1 km from lunch point, we had to climb up the mountain
through the jungle. The climb became steeper and steeper in the last about two
km stretch before reaching Grahan village. The climb took us to Village Grahan.
We passed through the village and took some snaps. The village had totally
transformed over the years. There were now so many Home Stays / guest houses in
the village, which I was told, were frequented by the adventurous foreigners.
Our
camp was pitched about a km walk away from the village. The camp was visible
from the village.
At
4.30 pm, we reached the Grahan camp which was at an altitude of 7700 ft. We
were welcomed by the camp leaders Mr. Anand (from Karnataka, retired from Wipro
in 2012) (ananda_hm1@yahoo.co.in,
facebook : ananda-bangalore) and Mr. Dinesh Kumar Singh (working in PWD,
Lucknow). They gave us the necessary instructions about the timings for soup,
dinner, camp fire, morning tea, breakfast, packed lunch and departure next
morning. They also informed about the separate toilet areas for boys and girls.
Three toilets for boys and one toilet for girls, were pitched nearby on
temporary basis by erecting enclosure with cloth sheet with zipper (Indian
toilet sheet embedded into ground over a septic tank). The water for washing as
well as drinking was provided through pipe, drawn from a stream. The cook was a
handsome jolly boy from Delhi, named Ramnath Paswan.
The
Bicchu leaves plants are in abundance in this region. These leaves have tiny
stings at their periphery. If a person get stung by it, it causes irritation
for few hours. The cure for this is the Bicchu
buti which grows in its vicinity, which are dark green colored leaves. For
finding out more about the Medicinal and aromatic plants of Himachal Pradesh,
you may log on to http://books.google.co.in/books?id=gAQnTAU-3lcC&pg=PA560&lpg=PA560&dq=bichhu+leaves+in+himachal&source=bl&ots=pbGfw227be&sig=LVvmn-mfUyARlPsDoKyrR5LRK4o&hl=en&sa=X&ei=cWWQU5fyHIyTuATI94GwBA&ved=0CCgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=bichhu%20leaves%20in%20himachal&f=false
)
On
arrival in the camp, we were offered litchi juice as welcome drink. Then after
half an hour, we were offered tea and biscuits. We were served with delicious
tomoto soup at 6.30 pm. The dinner was served at 7 pm, which comprised Bhindi,
dal, roti, papad and suji halwa. Then, the camp leader provided one sleeping
bag and one blanket to each member. Three tents were allotted to boys and one
tent was allotted to girls.
The
local villager offered to sell the local snacks / cuisine called Siddu. It is made up of atta (whole
wheat flour) with stuffing as per liking like potato, walnut etc. It looks like
Momos in appearance.
At
8 pm, members sat out in open and sang songs. Bournvita was served at 9 pm. I
sat with co-member Chandan (email : ckiitkgp@gmail.com) and was amazed at his
knowledge about spiritualism and God. He informed that he hails from Patna and
is a IIT-Kharagpur graduate and now works with TCS, Bangalore. He has done
Mining Engineering. I had good discussion with him on spirituality.
The
sky was very clear and was full of stars. It was a beautify view.
At
11 pm, we went to sleep. We 12 persons slept in one tent.
There
was electricity in the village but there was no electricity in our camp. There
was no mobile signal here.
Day 4 : 29th
May 2014 Thursday : Grahan to Padri
We
got up at 6 am. From 6.30 to 7.15 am, I did pranayam in the lap of nature away
from the hustle bustle of the camp. I felt so much at peace and it sort of
rejuvenated me.
At
8 am, the breakfast was served which comprised of aloo subzi, puri, sevian and
tea. In packed lunch, chana and roti was provided. We returned back the
sleeping bag and blankets.
At
9 am, we all assembled, thanked the camp leaders and cooking staff and at 9.15
am, we all moved for the next higher camp. Our guide for today was the same Mr.
Maniram (resident of Grahan village).
For
about 1 ½ km, we had to go down till the water stream / nallah. From here, it
was up and up. The climb / ascent was
quite steep (though not as steep as was yesterday on way to Grahan). We rested
at one place.
At
12 pm, we reached lunch point. A make-a-shift stall was put up by a Grahan
villager here. We took 6 boiled eggs @ Rs.20/- per egg. All took packed lunch
there. (15 minutes before the Lunch point, there was a water stream from where
all filled up their bottles). We rested at lunch point.
At
1.30 pm, we started from Lunch point. A 20 minute walk upwards from lunch point
and lo and behold we were at a dusty glacier ! Everyone was so excited to see
the glacier of snow, particularly the first timers (most in our group were
first timers, almost half members were from Bangalore). After crossing the
glacier, it was about half an hour easy walk when we spotted the YHAI banner of
Padri camp in the jungle. After walking 5 min from the banner, we could see the
camp site.
At
2.45 pm, we reached the Padri Camp, which is at an altitude of 9300 ft. It is a
very beautiful camp site. It felt out of this world. Five-Six tents were
pitched in a huge plain / meadow. The imposing mountains covered with snow
acted as perfect backdrop. The snow clad mountain peaks were so clear and
appeared so near. It gave a feeling as if we were sitting in a 5-D auditorium
like I-Max and the mountains were like a big screen / painting on the entire
stage. A stream of water was passing by the side of our tents, which added to
the beauty of the view around. The herds of sheaps and cows were grazing in the
field.
On
arrival, we were welcomed by the camp leaders Mr. Subhash Chander Arora (businessman
from Ghaziabad) (subashchander9@gmail.com, 09717008644) and
Mr. Shibu Dass (Keralite, working in Central Secretariat in Delhi for last 22
years) (sd8999@yahoo.co.in,
09871927076, 01123013360). We all lined up and counting was done, as usual. All
got busy in clicking photographs. The weather was sunny and good. I brushed
teeth and washed face in the running stream, which itself was a wonderful
experience away from the maddening crowd of the city. We were served with tea
and peanuts. All got involved in different activities. Some played gilli danda.
Some played Frisbee. At 5.10 pm, tomato soup was served. Most of us played the
game ‘Dumb charades’. The camp leader informed that Bear occasionally come in
this area and that a cow was killed by a bear nearby and cow’s mutilated body
is lying about 500 mtr away. Amit ventured to that spot and took photographs.
At
7 pm, dinner was served which comprised dal, loki subzi, rice, roti, papad and
kheer. The sleeping bag and blanket were issued. Some rested in tents while
others sang songs. It was a starry night and we could very clearly see the
stars light up the sky. Such a view is not possible in cities.
There
was no electricity and no mobile signal at Padri camp.
At
11 pm, we went to sleep.
Day 5 : 30th
May 2014 Friday : Padri to Ming Thatch
We
got up at 5.30 am. We answered nature’s call in the open in the woods nearby.
There were temporary toilets put up but the same were smelling. So most
preferred to go out in the open, since it was a large jungle area. The running
stream of water helped a lot.
As
we were getting ready to pack our bags and leave the camp, it started raining
at about 6.30 am, coupled with ole. We experienced the first rains in our trek.
This is going to make today’s trek difficult and riskier because today our
route is steep climb. Rains stopped after about 40 minutes. We all came out of
our tents and took breakfast which comprised poha and daliya. At 7.45 am,
packed lunch was provided which comprised aloo (dry) subzi and roti. Our guides
for today were Tashi (young boy from Darjeeling) and Ishwar Singh (of Grahan
village). I took a stick (@ Rs.20/-) being sold by the locals there, courtesy
Ishwar Singh. I, as others, wore the rain suits.
At
8.10 am, we started from the Padri camp. As we moved, the drizzle gradually
turned into rains. We went down and down upto the water stream/nallah. The path had become extremely slippery. We
then again trekked up and then again down. The path had become slippery. The
climb was steep. We crossed over many nallahs on the way.
At
1.15 pm, we stopped at a place where Praveen (?) Rathore, a local boy was
selling cold drinks, biscuits, chips etc. I bought frootie bottle @ Rs.50/- and
some salted snacks and chocolate.
At
2 pm, we reached lunch point. It started raining. We all took shelter under the
tent put up by the chaiwala. We took omlette @ Rs.50/- and tea @ Rs.30/-. After
the rain stopped, we clicked photographs. My pant of the rain coat had got totally
torn due to continuous up and down movement on the path.
At
3.30 pm, we started from the lunch point. Tashi guide went back from here.
Rathore, the young boy who was selling eatables, took his place, alongwith
Ishwar Singh.
There
was a huge ground and valley after that. From here, we could spot the banner of
YHAI Ming thatch at the top of the hillock which we had now to climb. We were
elated.
We
climbed the hillock. It was fairly steep. Today’s trek was the toughest and
lengthiest.
At
5 pm, we reached the Ming thatch camp, which is at an altitude of 11,200 ft. We
were welcomed by the Camp Leader Mr. Moon Singh Rathore (physical education
teacher in Jalore, Rajasthan( (09414895206). We put our wet clothes under the
sun.
At
5.15 pm, we were served with hot tea and two aloo bonda each. It was such a
delight. It was a good camp site. We watched the sunset from here. The kitchen
and water point (water by pipe from glacier) were downstairs. At 6 pm, tomato
soup was served. At 7 pm, dinner was served. At 8 pm, bournvita was served. We
gazed at the stars in the sky which was so clear. We were able to see
constellations like saptarishi, scorpio, dhanur etc. very clearly. The milky
way was also partially visible.
At
10 pm, we went to sleep.
There
is no electricity here but the mobile signal was partially catching on going a
little up from the camp site.
Day 6 : 31st
May 2014 Saturday : Ming Thatch to Nagaru
We
woke up at 7 am. The temporary toilets were smelly and hence almost all went
out in the open in the topsy turvy jungle for answering nature’s call. Going
out and then coming back to the tents was itself a mini trek ! The breakfast
was served at 8.30 am which comprised poori, aloo subzi, sevian, tea and
thereafter packed lunch was provided. I washed my face after the sun rays
kissed our camp.
At
10.15 am, we started from the Ming thatch camp. Our guides for today were Gopi,
Praveen and Devi singh. There is no water after Ming Thatch camp till Biskeri
(At Nagaru, water is taken out from glacier and it is very very cold) and hence
all filled up their water bottles fully.
Our
route today was climb up but not too steep like what we experienced from Padri
to Ming Thatch. We passed through snow patches at several points on the way.
Today, we all moved in a queue and the three guides helped us in making way by
their footsteps in the snow patches. Most of the time during climb, we had very
beautiful view of the snow clad mountains all around.
At
12 pm, we reached the lunch point. It was a good sunny day. I listened to songs
on my Sony MP3, sitting leisurely on a rock.
Soon,
it started drizzling and at about 1.15 pm, we all started from the lunch point.
Ultimately, a large patch of snow, on which we trekked, took us to our tents in
Nagaru camp.
At
3 pm, we reached Nagaru camp, which is at an altitude of 12,300 ft. This camp
was actually on a glacier. It was too windy here, coupled with a mild
hailstorm. We were welcomed by the Camp leader Mr. Akshay Dange (from
Maharashtra). Three tents were provided for the boys. Thick sleeping bags were
provided here, alongwith blanket. The facilities are scarce here because of the
inclement weather and strong winds all the time, being on top of the hill. We
found the behavior and tone of the camp leader and cooking staff a little rude,
which we ignored, as anyone living at such height and under such harsh
circumstances and adverse conditions for so long would become rude. The wind
was at its furriest and it looked as if the wind would blow away our tents. We
immediately changed our clothes (as these were wet due to sweat) in our tents.
After some time, it became sunny and we all came out, though wind continued. We
sat here and there on whatever little grassy patch was available and clicked
photographs. Some sang songs and some danced. We were surprised to get mobile
signal here, though there was no electricity. Most spoke to their relatives
back home on their mobiles.
At
3.45 pm, we were served with coffee and peanuts. At 4.30 pm, tomato soup was
served. Slowly and gradually, the sun went behind the clouds and it became too
cold. All went back into the tents and put on thermals and other clothes to
save from the cold and wind. One unique thing here was that there was no
facility for toilet. Though they tried to put up temporary toilets and even brought
toilet sheets, but the wind blew away the toilet tent. So, anyone desirous of
answering nature’s call has to do so on the snow itself a little away from the
camp with no place for hiding, in such chilling environment ! So, almost
everyone decided to skip this activity here and most skipped the dinner.
The
wind was very strong and the members hold on to the structure of the tents lest
the tent blow away by the gust of the wind.
At
6 pm, we all went to the sleep.
Day 7 : 1st
June 2014 Sunday : Nagaru to Sar Pass to Biskeri
Today
was the longest part of our trek, running into 14 km and most of the trek was through
snow.
We
woke up at 2.30 am. The bad weather was awaiting us. The drizzle soon turned
into snowfall which changed to rainfall. We waited in our tents for rain to
abate. We had planned to start for next camp at 4 am but the rain spoiled our
plans. We got ready in our tents but the rain and strong chilly winds prevented
us from coming out of our tents. In a brief 15 min period when the rain stopped,
we returned the sleeping bags and blankets.
At
5.45 am, when the rain stopped partially, we started for the next camp through
Sar Pass. We were helped by four guides – Nihal Singh, Ram Prakash, Shyam Lal
and bhikam Ram. They were to guide us upto Biskeri Top in the snow. They all
are from Grahan village.
We
walked and climbed on snow clad mountains. The entire journey was on snow. The
Nagaru camp itself was on snow, made by cutting the snow. We climbed for about
1 ½ hours continuously, in one queue, by following the footsteps prepared by
the guide in front. It rained and snow fall on the way intermittently.
After
three hours of climbing, walking and climbing, at about 8.45 am, we reached Sar
Pass, which is at an altitude of 13800 ft. We faced blizzard here. The snow was
flowing at furious speed with the wind. I had to put on the goggles even in
such dark, to protect the eyes from blizzard. The snow fall was continuing
since morning. It was too windy here. Our rain suits were turning out to be ineffective
and most of us were getting wet. Surprisingly, at this altitude and under such
bad weather and at such freezing temperature, one person under a small tent
under the snow crevice was making and selling tea ! This was really amazing.
Few sipped tea in such freezing temperature. From there, we walked on snow
mountain for about half hour. Thereafter, the journey was up and down on snow,
crossing the snow clad mountains. It was all white everywhere. Some of us were
tired of walking and climbing on snow. Frequently, our foot went down under the
snow upto knee.
After
several hours, we reached a point which is called Biskeri top. This is the
highest point after Sar Pass. It is at a height of 13500 ft. The last 50 ft
before reaching Biskeri top were climbed by us by holding on to the rope
already installed there. From here, new guides took over : Om Prakash (08894000812, 09418432012,
omprakash.adventure@gmail.com), Rajesh (09805285588, 08988288154), Ram Kishan @
Ramu (09805601570). Rajesh is from Mandi while Ramu is from Grahan. Om Prakash
was their leader and he organizes private treks also.
From
Biskeri top, there was a long slide down the hill in snow. We sat down on top with
our rucksack on our shoulder and then started sliding down. Aman lost his mobile
phone during sliding. Thereafter, we walked down on snow and again there was a
slide, followed by long walk down on the snow. We reached lunch point which was
a make-a-shift tent put up by a villager on the snow. He was selling maggi,
omlete, tea etc. It was continuously raining since morning. I was completely
drenched, so were few others. Due to this, the weight of clothes and belongings
had become heavier. I, Amit and Aman took omlette, magi and tea, shivering
under the tent while our rucksacks were out in the open under the rainfall.
After lunch point, there were two long slides, which gave us the feeling of a
roller coaster. Thereafter, we walked down on the muddy slippery path. I was
delighted to see the green trees and vegetation. I felt as if we were in white
snow for many days and as if we were seeing the greenery after several days.
Under the rains, we reached the Biskeri camp. Many members slipped on the way.
At
1.15 pm, we reached Biskeri camp, which is at an altitude of 11000 ft. The camp
leader Mr. Aditya (09505746991, fb: aditya tibrewal) came half a km up to
receive and welcome us and to boost our morale. It was a nice gesture on his
part. He is from Bhagalpur (Bihar) and is studying Computer Science in BITS
Pilani Hyderabad campus.
I
was totally drenched. It was continuously raining. We immediately occupied our
allotted tents. To my surprise, when I opened my rucksack, I discovered that
all my extra clothing and everything in the rucksack had got wet due to snow,
hailstorm and rains ! Though the YHAI rucksack was supposed to be waterproof,
but the snow and rainwater had peeped into the rucksack, making everything wet.
Fortunately, the undergarments which were kept in a separate polythene bags in
the rucksack were spared from this ordeal. I changed the clothes and wore a
semi wet pyjama and borrowed a shirt from Pankaj jain. This was the only
clothing I was left with. I was shivering and was having severe headache as I
had not eaten any food for last several hours due to lack of toilet facilities.
The camp leader promptly issued me a sleeping bag, and later a blanket also, at
my request. It made me feel cozy, which was a great relief. I did not step out
of the tent as it was cold and windy outside and with these clothes, I was
bound to get sick and get wet the only dry clothes left with me if stepped out.
At 4 pm, tea and Pakora were served. At 5 pm, tomato soup was served but I was
sleeping in my sleeping bag and recovering. At 6 pm, dinner was served. Pankaj
and tent-mates helped me in bringing the dinner for me in my tent, which
comprised of Loki subzi, roti, papad and guess what ! Gulab Jamun ! The cook
was Shiva from Delhi (works with Seven Seas caterers in Delhi). Amit and Aman
skipped the dinner, they were also shivering. We were 9 persons in our tent.
Each member was given one sleeping bag but no blanket. At my request, the camp
leader gave one blanket for me and one for Aman, as our condition was not good.
We
slept with the thought that if weather remain this harsh tomorrow also, then we
will skip the next camp and go directly to Barseni which is about 3 hour trek
from here and from there take a bus to the base camp Kasol which is one hour
bus journey from Barseni.
Day 8 : 2nd
June 2014 Monday : Biskeri to Bandak thatch
At
6.15 am, I woke up by the rays of the sun kissing our tent. Everybody got
elated on seeing the bright sunshine after bracing bad weather yesterday. It
eventually turned out to be a bright sunny day ! Few members who had decided to
end the trek and go directly to Kasol, like us, changed their mind on seeing
bright sun. We all took out our wet clothes and belongings and spread out on
the grass and on the tents for drying under the sun. It presented the view of a
relief camp.
The
sun, in literal sense, changed all of us. I realized the importance and power
of sunshine. Many answered nature’s call after two days, in the open near to
snow patch behind bushes and trees. The mobile signal was available here but no
electricity, as usual. The dinner, which I unwillingly took in the night, did
wonder. My headache was gone and I felt rejuvenated again in the sun. I freshen
up, washed face and took some snaps. I and Amit sat with yesterday’s guides Om
Prakash etc who were going to leave shortly for Biskeri Top to fetch the next group.
At
8.30 am, the breakfast was served which comprised of poori, aloo subzi, sevian
and tea. There was a water stream nearby. Two pipes from nearby glacier piece
catered to washing etc. It was a good
camp site with wonderful close view of snow clad mountains with tall trees
surrounding the camp.
At
10.45 am, after sufficiently drying our clothes and belongings, we started from
the Biskeri camp. Our guides were Tara Mani and Tulsi Ram (both from village
Pulga). It was a steep descent all the way for 2 hours upto the lunch point.
After some time, we climbed down through terrace stepping in the fields. We
spotted pink colored flowers called Fshanter
on small trees / jhad, which were prominent in this area. We crossed a deserted
dera on the way. We crossed water stream / nallah at various places. Mr. Moon singh Rathore (camp
leader at Ming Thatch) was also accompanying us from Ming thatch. This region
has Tosh and Kayal trees in abundance. These look like Devdar tree. Kayal tree
produces oil which is used for burning.
At
about 1 pm, at the lowest point on this route, we came down by rappling for
about 40 ft between the rocks using a rope tied there by YHAI. After rappling,
we landed at the foot of a big nallah, which we crossed by a temporary bridge
made of 3 wooden logs tied together across the nallah. Then we climbed up where
the local villager Krishna and her son Brij Lal from Pulga village had put up a
temporary stall. I and Amit relished sweet curd lassi here, made locally out of
fresh cow milk. It was so refreshing. We sipped five glass each. She charged
Rs.10/- per glass. This was our lunch point.
At
2 pm, we started from the lunch point. The up and down journey took us through
the jungle trail which was obstructed by fallen tree trunks at few places. We
crossed over fallen trees. After about 45 min from lunch point, we came across
a steep inclined trail almost about 50 degrees running about 60 mtr in length.
We then passed through a long dusty frozen glacier, beneath which water stream
was flowing.
Last
40 minutes were a steep ascent of about 45 degrees which was really strenuous,
after so many hours of descent.
At
4.15 pm, we reached the next camp Bandak Thatch, which is at an altitude of
9000 ft. It turned out to be the most beautiful camp site. It is sometimes also
called the Switzerland of India. It is a very large meadow spread over hundreds
of acres in the mountains, totally lush green, surrounded by snow mountains on
all sides. The tents, pitched in lush green grounds, presented a beautiful
view. Cows, buffalos, sheaps and goats were grazing in the ground. Many water
streams, in parallel, were passing through the meadow. Some members played gilli danda, some played
Frisbee. Some just sit and relaxed. All enjoyed the sunshine. The cow dung was
littered everywhere in green fields. At about 6.45 pm, the sun went down and it
suddenly became cold.
At
7 pm, the tomato soup was served, which as usual worked as tonic. At 7.30 pm,
we were issued the sleeping bag and blanket and then the dinner was served.
There was no camp leader at this camp and hence Subhash (cook from Delhi)
substituted for the camp leader. We were getting mobile signal here but no
electricity. At 8 pm, several members sang songs in the big tent made available
by subhash as it was cold outside. I, Amit and Pankaj gossiped in tent and went
to sleep. In the night at about 2 pm, I and Pankaj saw starry sky and could
even spot milky way partially.
Day 9 : 3rd
June 2014 Tuesday : Bandak thatch to Barseni to Kasol
We
woke up at 7 am. The sun rays had already kissed our campus area by then.
Members answered nature’s call downward in the woods after crossing the open
ground. At 7.15 am, the breakfast was served which comprised parantha, pickle
and tea. No packed lunch was given today.
At
8.30 am, we all started from the Bandak thatch camp. Subhash led the way for us
for about half km. There is no guide today and we have to reach our next
destination following the arrow marks on trees and rocks. We climbed down the
distance which we had climbed up during last lag yesterday. It was all down and down. The descent was
very steep. Mukesh Parmar ji (from Rajasthan, 09414206388) who enthralled us
with beautiful rendition of songs during the entire trek, was feeling pain in
his left knee while climbing down.
We
passed through village Tulka. There are three villages here : Pulga, Kalga and
Tulka. The foreigners frequent the village Pulga where many guest houses have
come up over the years (15 years back, the YHAI camp used to be at Pulga). On
the way, a Hydel power project and dam by NHPC was under construction by a
contractor Patel Engineering. Just after
crossing the village and project site, was Barseni village.
At
12 pm, we reached Barseni bus stand. I and Amit took lassi. The bus started at
12.10 pm (the bus comes generally every hour). We 27 members boarded the bus,
the remaining had not yet reached the bus stand and they will catch the next
bus. Barseni to Manikaran is 16 km and bus ticket cost Rs.25/- per person.
At
1 pm, we reached Manikaran. Three members got down here to take hot water
spring bath. After waiting for passengers, the bus started again at 1.30 pm for
Bhuntar via Kasol. Manikaran to Kasol is 4 km and bus ticket cost Rs.5/- per
person.
At
2 pm, we got down at Kasol base camp. We 24 members entered the basecamp amidst
chanting of our group slogan. We were welcomed by Mr. Mool singh Rathore, Moon
Singh Rathore, Balaji and other camp leaders at base camp. We were allotted
tents. I took refund of Rs.800/- from Diwanji as I had paid for the bus tickets
for all the members.
I,
amit and aman went to the market and searched for a good hotel. Though we could
stay in the tents in basecamp tonight, but we were fed up of staying in tents
and wanted to roam about in Kasol like a tourist and see its night life, which
was not possible had we stayed in basecamp. At 3 pm, we returned to basecamp. The
rest of the members including our group leader Shoban had not yet returned and
so our luggage which was buried under their luggage in the cloak room could not
be taken out. They came at about 5 pm. We collected our luggage from the cloak
room and returned the YHAI rucksack and sleeping sheet. All filled in the check
out form and feedback form and collected the Trek completion certificate. Madhav,
young boy who knows French and doing course in Tourism, working as camp leader
at basecamp, helped us in this entire process. I stuffed all my belongings in
my rucksack. Few members of our group bid good bye and left for their
respective abodes.
At
7 pm, I, Amit and aman shifted to Purnima Guest House (Pankaj jain stayed in
basecamp), which was next to the basecamp. Infact, from back side of camp, one
can just cross through the barbed wire and enter the Guest house. It had fairly
good spacious rooms having attached bathroom and toilet with geyser. We took
one room (Room no.103 on Gr flr) with one extra bedding/mattress, for Rs.700/-.
I put on my mobile after 9 days and put the camera battery for charging. I took
bath after so many days and felt refreshing.
I,
aman and Amit strolled in the market to find out a place to relax and unwind.
Aman went to a cyber café to do some pending works. I, amit took food in
Evergreen Restaurant, which is one of the best restaurants here in Kasol. The
Food in Kasol is comparatively cheaper. The food for two of us, which comprised
1 malai kofta, 1 garlic naan and 2 tandoori roti, costed only Rs.180/- ! Then
we walked back towards our guest house, to Yerpa Restaurant and Bar. The
interior was superb and it could beat any ‘A’ rated restaurant and pub of
Delhi. We took 60 ml pegs of smirinoff vodka, masala papad and cheese onion
mushroom pizza. It remains open till 12.30 am. So many foreigners could be seen
in the restaurant.
At
about 11 pm, we returned to the Guest house. To our pleasant surprise, 21 members
of our group were sitting in the lawn of the guest house and were having food,
snacks and drinks. Aman was also with them. We joined them. Some of them were
staying in the same guest house and some were staying in nearby guest house. We
dispersed at 2 am in the night. It was one of the unforgettable night. We
enjoyed the songs by Mukesh ji.
At
2.30 am, we went to sleep.
Day 10 : 4th
June 2014 Wednesday : Kasol to Delhi
We
got up at 9 am in the Purnima Guest house. I shaved after 10 days and took
bath. At 12 pm, we checked out of the Guest house and kept our luggage at the
reception thereof. I, amit and aman went to Little Italy restaurant which is a
famous food joint here. One can have a view of the main market and road of
Kasol from here. We took pizza, burger, grilled cheese sandwich, strawberry
lassi here. The food was delicious.
Pankaj
jain came there. With him, we went to YHAI basecamp and said good bye to shri Mool
singh Rathore, Moon singh rathore, Bala, Madahv and other camp leaders.
At
3 pm, we stood outside the basecamp on the main road to catch the bus to
Bhuntar. At 3.25 pm, we waived hands and boarded bus outside Yhai. At 3.45 pm,
our bus reached Jari. At 4.40 pm, our bus reached Bhuntar bus stand. We got down
here. We walked to office of Swagatam tours, opp Bhuntar Post office. We
confirmed our Delhi tickets here. He informed that bus has already started from
Manali and may reach about 6.15 pm here. We walked past fruit shops. We sat in
a eatery and took cold drink and chips. We watched movie in the office of tour
operator. At 6.40 pm, the Volvo bus (Anmol Travels/bus no. 3431) arrived.
At
6.45 pm, the Volvo bus started.
At
9.30 pm, it halted for 45 min at a dhaba at Sundrnagar for dinner.
Day 11 : 5th
June 2014 Thursday : Delhi
At
6.30 am, the Volvo bus reached ISBT, Delhi. We all got down. Aman’s father
picked us in his car.
At
7 am, I reached home.
Another
good trek came to an end.
Important points
and tips :
#
During the entire trek, my Sony Walkman MP3 came very handy. Wherever we rested
or halted for a long time, I listened to my favorite songs on it which
instantly transported me to an altogether different world in conjunction with
the beautiful view around me.
#
Though almost everyone in our group was a singer in his or her own right, I
would like to make a special mention about two girls – Rini and Mridula. These
two bubbly girls were the ‘FM Radio’ of our group and never got tired of
singing songs continuously during trek and kept us all enthralled by their
rendition of beautiful songs throughout the trek.
#
As we climb higher and higher, the prices of food items go on increasing, which
is quite understandable.
#
As told by the camp leader M.B. Bala, one of the way to protect from cold in
mountains is to take 1 spoon of honey everyday after dinner there and so
purchase 250 gm of honey. If feeling hungry, then take 2 pcs of Threptin
biscuits, they will substitute for the food. Similar function is performed by
Horlicks tablets.
# There is no electricity in any of the camps on Sar Pass route. The first two camps have no mobile signal while the next 4 camps have mobile signal.
#
When moving to higher camps, put all clothings and articles in separate
polythene bags and then put these bags in the rucksack, to prevent them from
getting wet.
#
While walking in snow and while climbing, ensure that you have a stick with
you. While sliding in snow, keep all belongings secured under the rucksack
under zip as these may get lost in snow during sliding.
#
For protection from rain and snowfall, take a proper and effective rain coat /
poncho.
#
Keep weight of the articles in your rucksack to the minimum. After all, you
have to carry this weight. The lesser the weight, the more the comfort.
#
I have given the contact numbers and email addresses of various camp leaders
and guides, wherever possible. More information about a particular camp or
route can be requested from them.
