Lahaul Spiti Road trip (Spiti valley, Himachal Pradesh)

Spiti Trip 3-12 June 2023 (7N8D)

 

For a long time, I longed for visiting Lahaul Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh as I had heard a lot about the said region and about the villages therein and had seen many vlogs of that region and the names like Nako, Tabo, Rekong Peo, Kaza, Chitkul, Hikkim, Komic, Chandratal, Batal, Chhatru, Gramphoo, Atal Tunnel, etc. used to reverberate in my mind. At the same time, I had this fear whether I would be able to do this trip given the fact that most of these places are above 12000 ft and are accessible only through circular serpentine journey in mountains which might cause AMS and headache and also the weather there is unpredictable and landslides and heavy rains may occur anytime making the mountainous journey very risky. I recently had problem in Arunachal Pradesh while going to Mayodia Pass (8711 ft) due to cocktail of diesel fumes, bright sun and high altitude. So, I was a little doubtful. But this time I was determined to go as otherwise it might have created a  fear psychosis in me for all times to come, in doing  high altitude trips and treks.

 

I contacted Mr. Hitin Koul (7889773130) who used to run D’Roamers which specialised in tours of Lahaul spiti and Leh Ladakh. But he told that he has moved out and he gave me number of one Kuldeep  (9999076635) for spiti trip. Kuldeep, in turn, connected me to one Mr. Kunal Sood (9015399687), marketing manager of Tiri Ratna Tour & Travel, which reportedly specialise in organising tours in Lahaul Spiti and Leh Ladakh region. I booked for two persons – me and Amit Burman- the 7N8D trip at cost of Rs.19,900/- per person which included Volvo bus journey from Delhi to Shimla and from Manali to Delhi and travel through Tempo Traveller throughout the trip and overnight stay for 7 nights, with 7 breakfasts and 7 dinners.

 

Day 0 : 3.6.2023 Saturday : Overnight journey from Delhi to Shimla

 

Finally, the day came. Me and Amit boarded the Volvo bus of Laxmi Holidays from near Gate no.4 of Kashmere Gate Metro Station, Delhi at 11.25 pm. It was a very luxurious bus, having thigh support, mobile charging point at each set of two seats, seats in 2x2 arrangement, overhead place for handbags, neat blankets, free water bottle and ample leg room. (In future, always try to travel by Volvo buses of Laxmi Holidays, the experience by return journey through Volvo of Travel Point was bad). We had carried suitcases which were kept in the boot space of the bus. On the way, the bus stopped for about 30-40 min at Shiva Dhaba (Mama Yadav) at Murthal for dinner at about 1 am. 

 

Day 1 : 4.6.2023 Sunday : Shimla to Narkanda / Dutt Nagar

 

At about 6.15 am in the morning, the bus stopped at a roadside dhaba at Dharampur for tea where some freshened up. This dhaba was a bad choice for halt as it had shabby condition. 

 

At 9.15 am, we reached our destination i.e. bus stand, Shimla. We met our tour coordinator Salil Singha (8988612726)  (a 28-29 year young chap) and Tempo Traveller driver Bhanu (9816419662) there. We took our suitcase to the Tempo traveller, and the duo then fit the luggages on the carrier on top of the vehicle. I had taken care to carry all things necessary for journey in my hand bag like Herbalife shake pouch, shaker, medicines, goggles, specks, power bank, headphone, mobile charger, jacket, muffler, cap, topi, hand towel, comb, dry fruits and toffees, so that I don’t have to open the suitcase again and again tucked and tied on top of vehicle. All tempo travellers were neatly parked in the parking area which was a cemented area down from the road by about 10 ft. 

 

There was a good restaurant in this parking complex by the name “The Horizon” (9736571421). We used the washrooms (which were neat and clean) in this restaurant and freshened up. Amit took parantha while I took Afresh and Herbalife shake.  There were simultaneously two groups in two Tempo Travellers. Our Tempo Traveller had 11 members plus one coordinator plus one driver. It was 13 seater Tempo Traveller. The driver Bhanu was the owner of this vehicle. He told that he recently purchased it and it has clocked only about 5000 km so far ! The vehicle was clearly a new vehicle and was neat and clean and well maintained. We were delighted to see this. We met with our co-travellers. They were Mamta Wadhwa, Nitasha Singla, Poonam (all three from Chandigarh), Sunita Popli (solo, French teacher from Karnal), Pooja Bhasin (solo from Mumbai), Munish Singla and his wife Monika and daughter Vrinda (7^th class) and son Madhav (5^th class) (from Patiala). The co-ordinator in other Tempo was Jatin Chauhan (9296000307), a 23-24 years young chap.

 

At about 10 am, both the Tempo Travellers started from Shimla bus stand. 

 

At 11.40 am, we stopped at a dhaba for food, near Kufri. We took roti, subzi, salad and curd.

 

Further on the way, we savoured cherrys being sold by a vendor on roadside after plucking from the cherry farms nearby. We also stopped by a dhaba called ‘Siyaram Siddu’ and savoured local dish “siddu” there. 

 

Taking appropriate breaks on the way and enjoying the scenic valleys on either side of the road, slowly, we left the hustle and bustle of the city behind and drove through Kufri, Fagu, Narkanda on an amazing stretch of the old Hindustan Tibet (aka old HT road).

 

At 5.45 pm, we reached Hotel Mahesh at Dutt Nagar (Mr. Rahul : 9218544255, 9857276928, 8894320255, 9218644255) (Dutt Nagar is about 55 km ahead of Narkanda, the other group stayed at Narkanda). The address at Hotel’s visiting card read as “Jhakri, Rampur Bushahr (situated on NH-5)”. Duttnagar is a Village in Rampur Tehsil in Shimla District of Himachal Pradesh State, India. It is located 59 KM towards East from District head quarters Shimla. 12 KM from Rampur. 59 KM from State capital Shimla. This Place is in the border of the Shimla District and Kullu District. Shimla, Sundarnagar, Mandi, Solan are the nearby Cities to Duttnagar.

 

We were allotted our rooms in the hotel. Me and Amit were allotted room on 2^nd floor. We freshened up and relaxed. 

 

At 6.20 pm, me and Amit walked down from the Hotel to the river Sutlej. It was about 2 km walk and it took us about 20 min. to reach there. The Rampur Hydro Power Station (412 MW) by SJVN Ltd is constructed at this site and entire area is dotted with green color flats occupied by their employees. It was infact a colony of these employees and staff. We spent a good 15-20 min there. Suddenly weather became dark, indicating that rain was imminent. We then hurried up and walked back towards our hotel. There was a storm followed by light thunder showers by the time we reached our hotel. 

We (me and Amit) settled in our room and enjoyed our music in our room. 

 

At 9.15 pm, we all 11 members met in the dining hall on the ground floor and had dinner together. It was windy and raining outside. The weather had really become very pleasant and cool.

 

Me and Amit strolled within the hotel and then went to sleep.

 

Day 2 : 5.6.2023 Monday : Dutt Nagar (Rampur) to Chitkul

 

We got up at 7 am. Me and Amit took Afresh (green tea). I took my nutrition shake and also logged on to the zoom session of Herbalife on mobile while we both got ready and packed our luggage.

 

At 9 am, we all took breakfast in the dining hall. We also met Mr. Kunal Sood (9015399687), the marketing manager of Tiri Ratna Tour & Travels. We made the payment of balance amount to him here (earlier we had paid 3k per person).

 

At 10 am, we bid bye bye to our hotel and started in Tempo Traveller from Hotel Mahesh, Dutt Nagar, Rampur. 

 

After sometime, we passed by confluence (sangam) of Sutlej river and Baspa river. From here, we moved along Baspa river (earlier we were moving along Sutlej river).

At 11.15 am, we stopped at a Shiva temple in Jeori on Jeori-Sarahan Road. We offered water on the shivling. There was hot water well / spring within the complex of this temple. A water channel from the well culminated into a kund where 2-3 boys were taking bath in hot water. We spent about 20 min here. (Bhaba Nagar was further 26 km from here, Tapri 45 km, Sangla 71 km and Chitkul 95 km).
At about 12.30 pm, we stopped at a waterfall by the side of the road in District Kinnaur. I dipped my crocs-wearing feet in the cold water accumulated from the waterfall. It was such a beautiful view and nice feeling.

The mountains were on our right side while on the left side, Baspa river was flowing in the valley in its full glory. At about 1.10 pm, we stopped at a small tunnel under the small mountain on the edge. It was such a nice view. The pictures of this place are seen in many vlogs online. We also clicked some pictures and reels at this spot.

At about 1.35 pm, we stopped at a point for about one hour as road ahead was closed due to blasting of rocks being carried out. Many bikers also congregated there. Some of us clicked pictures sitting on their bike !

At about 3.10 pm, we passed by Bhabha Nagar and at 4 pm, we passed by Tapri.

At about 4.45 pm, in the valley, we reached a junction called Karchham. There was a bridge here and also Hydro Energy plant (Karchham Bangtu 1045 MW and Baspa-II 300 MW) by JSW Hydro Energy Ltd. We took maggi etc. at a small eatery / shack here called Rukum Dhaba, Scandal point, Karchham. We spent about 30 min here.

Crossing the bridge, we took to right side towards Sangla and Chitkul.

Tucked away in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, the road from Karcham to Chitkul is one of the most exciting drives in the world. Set high in the Baspa Valley, also referred to as the Sangla valley, the cliff road above the Baspa (Sangla) River runs from Karcham, on the National Highway 5, to Chitkul, a very picturesque village at 3450 mtr above the sea level.

The road from Karchham to Chitkul is 42km long and has 2 very different parts. The first about 19km to Sangla is adrenaline-pumping road. At long stretches, it is broad enough only for one vehicle to pass. The tiny brick wall at the edge of the road is not going to stop your vehicle from going over. The second part of the road, from Sangla to the end, Chitkul, is terrible. Avoid a sedan or a low ground clearance car on this route. It’s unpaved, very narrow and heavily traficked by buses and trucks. The road conditions are pathetic but fun to move. Type roads between turned U-shaped mountain ranges, makes the travel even more dangerous. Don’t stuff your belly too much. Eventually, you might feel vomiting temptations while climbing circuitous roads at higher altitudes.

 

At about 6 pm, we reached Sangla. Sangla has the last liquor shop / theka on this side of India. After this place, no liquor is allowed to be sold as this road is further going to Chitkul which is the last border village with Tibet and entry is restricted there. We roamed in the Sangla market for sometime. We realised we were taking too many stoppages. It was getting dark. So, we hurried up so that we reach Chitkul in time. After Sangla, we crossed Rakchham.

 

The last about one hour drive to Chitkul was in dark using vehicle’s headlights.

 

At 8.15 pm, we reached Dev Cottages & Camps, Chitkul  (Mr. Naresh Kumar  9805657728). It was a nice site, almost at the end of Chitkul. It had swiss tents having beds and attached toilets. It started getting very cold, as the rain started. Me and Amit enjoyed music, sang, danced in our tent and later took dinner in our tent, as it was raining and cold outside. We then fell asleep at 11 pm.

 

Chitkul, at an altitude of about 11,320 ft (3450 mtr) above sea level, is the last inhabited village on Indian side near the Indo–Tibetan border and the motorable road ends here. The village of Chitkul is very picturesque, like something from a fairy tale. There is dead end after Chitkul. So, for going to other places in Spiti valley, one has to return back to Karchham (after crossing Sangla). 

Chhitkul is a village in Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. During winters, the place mostly remains covered with the snow and the inhabitants move to lower regions of Himahal.  

According to a recent study by Centre of Atmospheric Sciences at IIT Delhi, Chitkul has the cleanest air in India. Chitkul, a village located on right bank of Baspa river, is the last village of the Baspa valley and the last village on the old Hindustan-Tibet trade route. It is also the last point in India to which one can without a permit. 

Day 3 : 6.6.2023 Tuesday : Chitkul to Kalpa

At 5.30 am, I woke up. It was cold outside. Me, Munish and his little son walked to ITBP Check-post. It took us about 30 min to reach there. It is the last point upto which the civilians are allowed to go. The Tibet border is 70 km away from here, as told by the ITBP soldier Aditya 8168117505 (from Karnal) deputed there.

At 7.30 am, we returned back to our camp. I took bath, shaved, packed baggage and took my afresh and shake. The camp staff served parantha, bread-butter and tea in the breakfast.

At 10 am, we all, after putting our baggage in the vehicle, walked down with coordinator / guide to the river front, crossing the boulders and stones. It was such a beautiful scenery around, straight from a fairy tale. We sat on stones and dipped feet in cold river water of Baspa river and spent some quality time there in the lap of nature. After about 30 min, we all came up from other side and visited the temple in the Chitkul village and roamed through the village. There were two boards put up there in the village on the road – one claiming Chitkul as ‘India’s last village’ and other board claiming India’s last post office here !

At about 12 pm, we all started in our vehicle which had reached there, bidding bye bye to Chitkul.

At 1.15 pm, we reached back Sangla market. We took lunch here in a restaurant. The roti everywhere in this trip (except at Dutt Nagar), was tawa roti and not tandoori roti.

At 2.30 pm, we started from Sangla.

At 3.25 pm, we passed by Karchham. Five minutes after crossing Karchham, there was a diversion – one road going towards Rekong Peo and Kalpa and other going towards Shimla. We took the road to Kalpa.

At 4.30 pm, we reached Rekong Peo. We roamed in the market. I attended my arbitration hearing (in Metrro Waste Handling Pvt Ltd vs SDMC & ors) by vc through my mobile while sitting in a restaurant while savouring samosa tikka and burfi.

At 5.45 pm, we started from Rekong Peo.

At 6.10 pm, we reached Kalpa. However, instead of checking into our hotel, we straight drove to a point called ‘Suicide point’. It is located on one of the toughest mountain roads in the country. It was very cold and windy here. After that we visited the neighbouring Roghi village where we visited a beautifully decorated wooden temple.

At 7 pm, we started from Village Roghi and reached our Hotel Kalpa Mansion, Kalpa (Mr.Navkaran borris : 9818289305) within 15 minutes. Me and Amit got room on 1st floor. We enjoyed music in our room. At about 8.45 pm, we all went to the dining table on 3rd/ top floor from where one can have a good view of the surroundings, and had dinner. We then retired for the day.

Day 4 : 7.6.2023 Wednesday : Kalpa to Tabo

At 5 am, me and Amit got up, to see the rising sun during twilight period (30 min before actual sunrise when the mountains turn into golden color !) (twilight is the period of time before sunrise and after sunset, in which the atmosphere is partially illuminated by the sun, being neither totally dark or completely lit). We went to the top floor / terrace. The mighty snow-clad mountains looked so huge and near from the balcony. It was such a beautiful view. We managed to capture some really precious pictures of the mountains during twilight. We could also see Kinner Kailash peak in the background, which looked like a standing rod from the distance.

We then freshened up, took breakfast at 8.30 am and packed our luggage.

At 9.40 am, we started from the Hotel at Kalpa.

At 10.10 am, the driver stopped at the petrol pump at Rekong Peo for diesel. This was the only petrol pump in this entire region and hence there was a long queue of vehicles. We lost about 25 min here in fuelling the vehicle.

At 10.35 am, we started from the petrol pump.

At 10.45 am, we took diversion towards Pooh and Kaza.

At 11.30 am, we passed by Spillow, a small hamlet in District Kinnaur. At 12 pm, we passed by Pooh. We then took diversion towards Khab. At 12.14 pm, we passed by Dubling (2518 mtr ). There was a Check post at Dubling. The driver got his documents and list of passengers checked here (Inner Line Permit?).

At 12.30 pm, we reached Khab. It is the confluence of river Spiti and river Sutlej (the clean one is river Spiti and dusty one is river Sutlej). There was a green colored steel bridge at this point. Many travellers were enjoying at this spot, clicking pictures.

At 12.55 pm, we started from Khab. On the way, one notices the terrain change and the end of tree line.

At 2 pm, we reached Nako Monastry. We spent about 45 min here. We sat with some monks / lama and also enquired the historical importance of this place. At 2.45 pm, we started from Nako monastery and stopped at a Dhaba very nearby. We all took lunch here. It was windy but very hot here and we all were getting tanning. We all tried to sit under some shelter. We enjoyed scenic view of Nako village from here from the roof of dhaba, with our vehicle parked on the adjoining helipad strip.

At 3.30 pm, we started from the dhaba at Nako.

At 3.39 pm, we crossed Malling nallah on the road. Fortunately, it was dry otherwise during rains, it becomes very dangerous.

At 4.15 pm, we came down to the river level (Spiti river). At 4.25 pm, we crossed village Shalkar.

At 4.35 pm, we reached Check Post at Sumdo. We took tea at the Cafetaria just after crossing the checkpost. This cafeteria is run by defence personnel.

At 5 pm, we started from there.

We reached a Gate from where one road was going to Gue village / Gue monastry on the right side and other road was going to Tabo on the left side. We took road to Gue. It was a very narrow and dusty road…..no greenery. The river was flowing on the right and mountain was on the left. The vehicles coming from the opposite direction got stuck at many places and vehicles then had to reverse and make adjustments so that other vehicle can pass ! Some length of the road is ok but mostly it is so so. We passed through Gue village. Notably, all houses had solar panel !

At 5.40 pm, we reached Gue monastry. We were charged entry fee of Rs.30/- per passenger. The construction work was going on in the monastery and the entry fees was reportedly to fund this construction. There is a preserved 593-year-old mummy of Sangha Tenzing, a Buddhist monk here. We saw the mummy kept in a small room here. It was very windy but intense sunshine here.

At 6 pm, we started back from Gue monastery. At 6.27 pm, we returned back to the same gate. We took road towards Tabo. At 6.38 pm, we passed by village Hurling and at 7.07 pm, we passed by village Lari.

At 7.15 pm, we reached ‘Kalsang Homestay’ at Tabo (Ms. Sonam Dolma 8219564182). While others in our group stayed there, me and Amit stayed in adjoining ‘Tabo Heights’ Homestay as one room with attached washroom was short in Kalsang. Though these are called Homestays, but infact these are small hotels. They take licence for a homestay from the Govt but run these as hotels. Me and Amit enjoyed music in our room.

At 9.45 pm, we took dinner. The preparation was good (almost Delhi like !). Me and Amit then strolled for about 20-25 min outside the hotel. It was quite cold but pleasant. At 10.30 pm, we came back to the hotel, gossiped and then went to sleep.

Day 5 : 8.6.2023 Thursday : Tabo to Kaza

At 5 am, we got up and freshened up. At 6 am, we all walked to the nearby meditation caves uphill (10 min walk) and spent time there. It was such a nice and wide view of whole Tabo town from this hillock. We saw the whole town turn from dark to light as the sun rose from behind the mountains and covered the town with sunshine. We could also see a helipad at the far remote end of Tabo town on a plateau by the side of the river.

At 7.20 am, we returned to the hotel and took bath. We then took breakfast (dosa) and packed our luggage.

At 9.30 am, we all walked to Tabo monastery nearby through Tabo village. It was 5 to 7 min walk through the village. The Tabo monastery – also called "Ajanta of Himalayas" – is close to 1000 years old now. At 10.20 am, we all returned to the Hotel. The Tempo Traveller was ready to depart, with our luggages tied up at the top.

At 10.30 am, we started form the hotel in Tempo Traveller.

After some time, we spotted a hanging bridge over the river on the left hand side. We got down to the bridge and clicked pictures here against beautiful background. We spent about 20 min here. At 11.50 am, we passed by village Shichling.

At 12.20 pm, we reached Dhankar monastry. Dhankar used to be the Seat of the King in ancient times. It was such a beautiful view of the monastry from a distance in the mountains as we were approaching the monastery. It looked as if entire monastery is hanging on a cliff edge, with snow clad mountains in the backdrop, and overlooks the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. We parked the vehicle there and walked to the monastery. At one end, one could see the valley with river flowing across it on the ground. It was such a beautiful riot of colors all around us in nature. We clicked some really stunning pictures here.

We took lunch at a restaurant here, which had neat and clean washroom.

At 2.10 pm, we started from Dhankar monastry.

At 2.45 pm, we stopped at River spiti front. I dipped foot in the cold water of the river. It was so refreshing ! We spent about 15 min here, and then started again.

We stopped for 10 min at a man-made waterfall by the side of a bridge just before village Lingti. We then crossed village Lingti at 3.05 pm.

At 3.10 pm, we reached a point (small bridge) where one path on left going to Madh village (in Pin valley) and other (on right side) going to Kaza. We all were interested in visiting Madh village which is the last village in Pin valley (Pin valley is the least explored valley in

Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh. On the way to Madh village, we could also visit the Kungri Monastery and then the beautiful hamlet of Mudh - the last motorable village of the Pin Valley). So, we drove towards Madh but to our bad luck, the route was blocked due to stones. So, we reversed and drove towards Kaza.

At 4 pm, we reached petrol pump of Indian Oil at Kaza. A board put up there claimed it to be world’s highest retail outlet petrol pump at 12170 Ft.

At 4.15 pm, we reached Hotel Serkhang, Kaza (Mr. Amit 7876455275) nearby. Me and Amit got Room 206. At 4.30 pm, me and Amit walked to the Kaza market. We savoured Samosa and Jalebi here. We purchased 1 kg mango (safeda). Light drizzle started while on our way back to the hotel. At 5.45 pm, we returned to the Hotel. We enjoyed music in our room till 8.20 pm.

At 8.30 pm, we all assembled in the Dining room on the terrace and had Dinner. There, we played Antakshri from 9 to 9.30 pm. At 9.35 pm, we retired to our room.

(This area is known for Seabuck Thorn / Leh Berry but it was not available currently as it was not the season).

Day 6 : 9.6.2023 Friday : sightseeing in Kaza (Langza, Komic, Hikkim, Ki Monastry, Chicham bridge, kibber village)

We got up at 6.30 am and got ready leisurely. At 9 am, we all took breakfast in the dining room on the terrace.

At 9.35 am, we started from the Hotel (no luggage packing today, as we will stay tonight also at this hotel in Kaza). Pooja had some AMS issue and so we drove to a nearby medical centre of State Government where she consulted a doctor and got free medicines. At 10 am, we started from the hospital and took Kaza-Langza road. It was uphill journey…road was quite good.

At 11.10 am, we reached Langza. It has a large Buddha statue at an altitude of 14300 ft overlooking the valley and mountains. As we reached there, it started snowing ! It was such a beautiful scene and feeling with light snowfall falling on everyone and we all clicking pictures around the statue.

At 11.55 am, we started from Langza, driving further up.

At 12.20 pm, we reached Komic monastery, at an altitude of 15500 ft. This is the highest point of the spiti trip. We were charged entry fee of Rs.30/- per passenger at the monastery. It was quite windy here. One can have a good view of Komik village from here. Komik is World’s Highest Village connected via motor-able road.

At 12.50 pm, we started from Komic monastry. It was down and down from here. I would like to point out that there are clean toilets at Langza and Komic, so there is no need to go in the open.

At 1.10 pm, we reached a point where there was a small tin shed which housed a counter selling printed post cards (of various attractions of Spiti valley) and postal stamps and envelopes and a shack selling maggi, omelette etc. There was a huge board put up here, with caption “ I ❤️ WORLD’S HIGHEST POST OFFICE”. We clicked pictures here. We purchased printed post cards and stamped envelopes here (Rs.40/- per card including Rs.6/- postal stamp). This place is called Hikkim.

We then drove to a huge, red colored, Post box which was erected about 100 mtr away on the main route. This post box was actually an enclosure with postmaster sitting in it and receiving and sorting the post cards being posted by travellers here to their loved ones. So many travellers had gathered here including several bikers. All were elated to post to their loved ones from the World’s highest post office !

(The road down from Komic to Hikkim is not good. It is dusty, without black top. Snowfall continued off and on from Langza till Hikkim and even further).

At 1.55 pm, we started from Hikkim post office.

At 2.50 pm, we returned back to Kaza outskirt and from here, we took diversion to .... for Ki village and Key Monastry. (It is pronounced in many ways : Ki, Kee, Key etc.)

At 3.10 pm, we passed through Ki village (falls under Gram Panchayat Kibber). At 3.23 pm, we reached Kee Monastry. From a distance, it also looks like as if this monastery is hanging from a cliff edge. Such pictures of Dhankar monastery and Ki monastery are widespread on internet. The world famous Kee monastery is situated at a height of 13,668 feet. It is about 1000 years old.

Here, at Kee monastry parking, we took lunch in a restaurant. We then visited the monastery which is a 5 minutes walk up. Amit told that he had come here few years ago and had met the person (in specks with a moustache, whose 2 daughters used to study in Delhi university back then) whose photo is now put up here as 19th Rinpoche (Rinpoche is a title in Tibetan Buddhism which may be given to a religious teacher known as a lama. The word "Rinpoche" literally means "precious one". Dalai lama is 14th Rinpoche). We were served local green tea here.

At 5 pm, we started from Kee monastery.

At 5.20 pm, we reached Chicham bridge. The Bridge is at a staggering height of 13596 ft. Look down and you will findyourself gaping below at a 100 ft deep gorge. It was very windy here, so windy that light weight people may be sept away by winds ! A slight drizzle also started with the heavy wind. At 5.35 pm, we started from Chicham bridge.

At 5.45 pm, we passed through Kibber village, taking pics sitting in the moving car. After crossing the village, we came across the green sign board of Kibber wildlife sanctuary.

At 6.35 pm, we returned back to our hotel at Kaza and relaxed in our room.

At 8.30 pm, we all assembled in the dinner room on the terrace and had dinner (after dinner, satsang with Amit and Munish in dinner room for one hour !).

At 10.15 pm, we retired to our room.

Day 7 : 10.6.2023 Saturday : Kaza to Chandratal

Today, we had to reach Chandratal camp in time so that after reaching there we could trek to Chandratal lake and click pictures before it became dark and overcast. So, we decided to start early today.

We got up at 5 am and got ready. At 7.10 am, we took breakfast (I took 1.5 egg, poha, bread butter). I also got packed a toast and butter and little poha.

At 8.25 am, we started from the Hotel at Kaza.

At 8.32 am, on the wooden bridge, we took diversion towards Losar (56 km away) (other route going towards Langza etc which we took yesterday).

We passed by village Rangrik at 8.39 am; village Kiato at 9.45 am, village Hansa at 9.50 am (Helipad here).

At 10.10 am, we reached Losar. We stayed for about 40 min here. Some relieved themselves here while some took food. This is NH-505. Losar is the last village / point before Kunzum and Chandratal. After this, its likely that we will not get any halt point or any eatery till Chandratal. It is also the last point till which the mobile network works. After this, the mobile network does not work. In Chandratal also, mobile network does not work. We will now find mobile network tomorrow at Gramphoo when we are going from Chandratal to Manali.

At 10.50 am, we started from Losar. Our driver got his documents checked at Losar checkpost.

At 12.10 pm, just after crossing a bridge, we reached Kunjam devi temple (Kunjam pass is away) by the side of the road and did darshan.

At 12.40 pm, we started.

The melted snow water was flowing on the kacha road at many places. At one point, one rock was obstructing the road. Some of us removed the same.

At 1.15 pm, we reached a diversion point - one route going to Manali and other to Chandratal. We drove towards Chandratal.

At 2 pm, we reached UC Camps, Chandratal (Mr. UC : 8219119543 / 9418401551). There were many camps put up at a vast tract of land here. From a distance and from height, it looked like a colony. The tents resembled the tents of king’s armies in old days (chhavni / lushkar) !

We were allotted tents. All tents had beds and attached toilet. We were also able to meet the owner i.e. UC Bhai, who was leaving for Kaza. It was quite cold here. Me and Amit took bread omelette and regained some energy.

Fortunately, the weather was very good – it was bright sunny day and route was also clear. So, our driver agreed to drop us till the last motorable point from where we will have to trek for only about 25 -30 min to reach Chandratal (otherwise, we would have had to trek for about 2 hours from our camp to Chandratal).

At 3.15 pm, we started in our Tempo Traveller from UC Camp. It was uphill drive on dusty uneven path. At 3.35 pm, driver dropped us at a point (parking point) from where we have to trek to Chandra taal.

At 3.55 pm, after walking / trekking, we reached Chandrataal lake. It is the origin of River Chandra which merge with river Bhaga at a place before Keylong, to become Chandrabhaga river.

The mystical and beautiful Chandratal Lake, which translates to “Moon Lake”, is located at a height of 14,100 feet. The Chandra Bhaga mountain range forms a striking backdrop for the lake, which changes appearance according to the changing climate and time.

It was such a mesmerizing view at Chandratal. So many people, mainly youngsters, were rejoicing here. It was windy as well as very stinging sunlight here. It looked like a tourist spot with so many people !

At 6.08 pm, we started from Chandratal lake parking spot where our vehicle was parked.

At 6.30 pm, we returned back to UC Camps. It was becoming very cold. Me and Amit took Ginger Lime Honey and pakore and enjoyed Music on our Bluetooth speaker inside the dining tent. At 7.15 pm, soup was served by the camp staff. It was really very very cold outside. It must be zero degree temperature in the night !

At 8.45 pm, dinner was served in the Dinner area tent.

After dinner, at 9.15 pm, we hurried up to our tent N6. I was feeling very cold. The wind stopped around 9.30 pm (the camp staff told that generally the wind stops around 9 pm and start again in the day around 12-1 pm). Me and Amit retired to our bed.

At 3 am, I got up due to suffocation by diesel fumes of one Innova parked adjoining our tent. Its driver kept engine running to keep car heated inside in which he was sleeping. I made him switch off the engine. It gave some relief from suffocation. The sky was overcast. As a result, the Milky Way was not visible today (if sky is clear, one can see beautiful view of Milky way galaxy from here under the gaze of a million stars).

Day 8 :11.6.2023 Sunday : Chandratal to Manali to Delhi

I got up at 6 am and freshened up. We had no bath today as it was too cold, and moreover we had to leave early as it was a long journey today. We decided to leave early because as time passes, the water in the nallahs (water flowing down from the mountains on to the road) rises and there are so many such nallah throughout the route to Manali, making the journey risky and dangerous. As snow walls on both sides of road loosen with rising sun, the vehicles get stuck in snow on the road. We decided that here we will take just tea and will take proper breakfast at famous Chacha-Chachi dhaba at Batal which was about 1 ½ hour journey from here.

At 7.30 am, after taking tea and butter toast at camp, we started from UC camp Chandratal for Manali. The road condition was very bad. The road was very narrow. It was actually kacha raasta with water streams overflowing at many places on the path and vehicles coming from opposite direction blocking the narrow path at many places. This prolonged the journey to Manali.

At 8.50 am, we reached Chacha Chachi dhaba at Batal. As this dhaba was overcrowded (thanks to wide popularity on youtube vlogs), me and Amit took breakfast at other dhaba nearby. At 9.35 am, we started from Chacha Chachi dhaba, Batal.

At 10.53 am, we crossed Chhota Dara village at an altitude of 3400 mtr.

From here, we leave Spiti district and enter Lahaul district.

At 12.20 pm, we crossed Chhatru.

After this, route is still kacha but is comparatively wide. Now, greenery slowly starts, leaving behind snow mountains and icy nalle and watery road. Now, road is dusty and greenery increases gradually.

At 1 pm, we reached Dorni nallah, where there was a glacier on the road turn and snow wall on both sides making a narrow gulli. The road was blocked here. One car got stuck in the road here.

At 1.27 pm, with great difficulty, cars stuck was moved and we steered out of nallah.

At 1.40 pm, the treeline started on left had side, with valley on the right had side.

At 1.45 pm, another nallah / durra came. One car was stuck here also. Fortunately, we were the first vehicle next to said car. As the said car managed to clear, we immediately crossed the nallah (but after that, we could see that other vehicles got stuck in the ensuing jam). We passed through this nallah in 5 min.

At 2.15 pm, after traversing Kaza-Manali road, we came on to the main highway (Manali-Rohtang highway), the left was going to Rohtang pass (about 15 min journey from here) and right was going towards Atal Tunnel. This place is called Gramphooand there was a Checkpost picket here.

At 2.27 pm, we reached Koksar.

At 2.50 pm, we stopped at Sunil Dhaba after crossing Koksar. Some took lunch here. Me and Amit took bhutte and gol gappe. At 3.30 pm, we started.

At 3.37 pm, we entered Atal Tunnel (North Portal), which is at an altitude of 10,040 ft. It is 9 km long. It is an engineering marvel. It was opened on 4th October 2020. Interestingly, unlike other mountain tunnels, it is a straight tunnel with no curves or bends !

After crossing the Atal Tunnel, we got down from the vehicle at the other end of tunnel and clicked pictures there. At 4 pm, we started from the Atal Tunnel.

There was heavy rush of vehicles, in a serpentine line on curvy mountain road, jostling to enter Manali. At 4.35 pm, we crossed Solang Ropeway and Ski Centre. It looked like a popular picnic spot locally. At 4.39 pm, we crossed village Solang. Sitting in vehicle, we could see people enjoying activities here like zipline etc.

At 5.45 pm, the Tempo Traveller dropped us at Manali volvo stand. The Volvo Bus No. 9798, which was to take us from Manali to Delhi, was parked on the roadside. We removed our luggage from the Tempo Traveller and put in the Volvo bus. It was raining. Driver did not allow us to board the bus. He said we can board only about 8.30 pm and at a point farther away ! He was rude.

To utilise time, me and Amit walked to Mall Road Manali (20 min walk) (4 co-travellers also went to Mall road in auto. Pooja left for some hotel. Munish and family took Zing volvo at 7 pm for Chandigarh). We two walked on the Mall road of Manali. Being Sunday, it was so crowded. We took pao bhaji and tikki at a restaurant, then dosa at another restaurant and then 8-in-one kulfi icecream ! We walked back to volvo pick up point. Other group members of our trip (including 10 passengers of other Traveller) were standing there. Waited for bus to come to that point. Driver brought bus at 8.45 pm.

At 9.30 pm, the volvo bus started from Manali. At 11 pm, the bus reached Aut where there was huge jam just before the Aut tunnel. It is 2.9 km long tunnel on Manali-Chandigarh National highway (about 60 km form Manali). This tunnel is a nightmare for the drivers. The traffic did not moved an inch for about 2 ½ hours ! The passengers of several vehicles came out and sat on the road and pavement – some played music, some relaxed.

At 1.30 am, the traffic jam cleared and the bus started.

At 2.25 am, our bus stopped at ‘Beas View Guest House’, at Pandoh, Mandi, for 30 min. for dinner. At 3 am, the bus started.

At 8 am, the driver stopped the bus at a shabby dhaba in Mohali. It had the worst toilets. Passengers complained to him but he was rude and adamant. Bus tipped here for 40 min (I took Afresh and herbalife shake). The bus was scheduled to drop us in Delhi at about 9 am but it got delayed (first due to late departure from Manali, then 2 ½ hours jam at Aut and to top it all, slow speed by driver). Two group members dropped at Mohali and two dropped at Zirakpur near Decthalone showroom. At 11.10 am, driver stopped bus at Mayur dhaba, Karnal. (I forgot my Herbalife shaker here). At 11.23 am, bus started.

At 1.20 pm, me, Amit and many passengers got down at Bypass in Delhi. I took an auto and reached home at 2 pm. (Rishu was about to leave for airport to go to Europe).

Thus, another good trip came to an end.

Note :

1. On Spiti Trip, one must keep in mind that one is bound to get tanning, as the suns intensity (due to Ultra Violate UV rays) is high on high altitude. So, is one is particular about skin color, one must use appropriate sun screen cream like SPF 50, which can lower the tanning, though not completely avoiding tanning.

2. Mobile connectivity and electricity is more or less available at every place in Spiti valley. The Jio mobile network works good in this region. There is no mobile network and electricity at Chandratal.

 

Sar pass Trek (May-June 2014) (National Himalayan Trekking Expedition organized by YHAI)

Sar pass Trek (May-June 2014)

(National Himalayan Trekking Expedition organized by YHAI)

                                                                                                                [YouTube Vlog of this Trek]

The Himalayas were again beckoning me as it was quite a long time since I trekked in Himalayas. The grandeur of Himalayas is always a fascination for me.

So, in 1^st week of April 2014, I booked online, at YHAI website, for the SAR PASS trek for me and my friend Amit Burman (@ Rs.4247/- per person) and we managed to get booking for reporting date of 26^th May 2014 (the online status of bookings was all full). Later, my wife’s sister’s son Aman Beriwal and Amit’s friend Pankaj Jain also joined. I had earlier done Sar Pass Trek in 1991 and 1998.

About a month before the departure, I made my morning walks more regular and I also joined the Gym, so as to maintain the stamina for the trek.

Two three days before departure, I purchased the necessary things and set rolling for the D-day.

Day 0 : 25^th May Sunday : Delhi to YHAI Base camp at Kasol (Himachal Pradesh)

At 4.30 pm in the evening, I and Aman started from my home in Punjabi Bagh, Delhi. We met Amit Burman there. We boarded Volvo bus 2x2 near Ambedkar Bhawan, opp Videocon tower, Jhandewalan, Delhi. I had booked Volvo bus tickets of Aashiana Travels in advance on 21.5.2014 through the website travelyaari.com @ Rs.1100/- per person for journey from Delhi to Kullu. The scheduled departure time was 5.30 pm and arrival time in Kullu was 4.30 am next day.

At 6 pm, the Volvo Bus started from Ambedkar bhawan. It halted at Majnu Ka Tila for 5 min. to pick up other passengers. The chairs in the bus were reclining, with thigh support. It was semi-sleeper Volvo.

As we crossed Murthal, at about 7.40 pm, it started raining heavily. At 8.40 pm, the bus halted for 45 min at Karnal for dinner at Punjabi Deluxe dhaba. At 11.45 pm, the bus picked 8 passengers from Chandigarh. We thereafter reached Kiritpur, and then the Himachal Pradesh border. From here, the ascent starts. The new driver took over from this point. The road position was bad for few km in starting from here. We slept in the bus.

Day 1 : 26^th May 2014 Monday : Kasol

At 6 am in the morning, our Volvo bus crossed Mandi (place in Himachal Pradesh).

After moving about 12 km from Mandi, at 6.30 am, our bus halted at Beas View Guest house n Bhojnalaya, which is 5 km short of Pandoh. We freshen up and took tea and biscuits here. Bhuntar was still 45 km and Manali was 100 km from here.

At 8.30 am, we got down at Bhuntar. It seemed that the early morning cold air of the mountains had got into my head, which made me temporarily unwell leading to vomiting when we got down at Bhuntar. I rested for about half an hour at Bhuntar, so that I stabilize, before starting onward journey to base camp at Kasol.

At 9.30 am, we boarded local bus from Bhuntar bus stand to Kasol (@ Rs.45/- per head), which ply almost every half hour. Bhuntar to Kasol is about 30 km and it takes about 1 to 1 ½ hours by bus.

At 10.45 am, we got down at YHAI base camp at Kasol (the bus was going further to Manikaran which is 4 km further from Kasol).

It was the same camp where I stayed during my last Sar Pass trek in 1998. It was several feet below the road level. The temporary stairs made of stone slabs led us to the reception of the base camp. Mohini, a young girl, was managing the reception. We filled check in forms. We met Pankaj jain who had reached 10 min back. We all four shifted to the group SP-25 (instead of SP-26). I took bath. There are constructed toilets and bathrooms at base camp, separate for girls and boys. There was a big tented area near the reception which was used for orientation meetings, camp fire etc. Further down, there were rows of tents on both sides. The participants live in these tents during their stay at base camp. They are provided two blankets each. Further down, is the house of the owner of this land (in which base camp tents are erected every year). A portion of his house is used as cloak room for storing the extra luggage of the participants.

At 12.30 pm, we four (I, Aman, Amit and Pankaj) went to the market in Kasol, which is 5 min walk. There were lots of foreigners, mainly Israelis. Kasol has changed over the years. Last time when I was here in 1998, there used to be only one or two small shops selling basic necessity goods. Now, so many shops and hotels and guest houses have come up here. It is a huge market now. Infact, as I discovered later during my stay here, Kasol is on the way of becoming another hill station in Himachal Pradesh, after Manali. We took Chinese food in an open eatery (Namaste Cafe). At 2 pm, we returned to the base camp. We sat in our allotted tent (Tent No.4) and gossiped with other participants.

At the entrance, near the reception, there was a temporary platform made of wooden plank on which electricity connection with some multi-plugs was provided. The participants were charging their devices (camera, mobiles etc.) here.

At 3 pm, there was orientation lecture for the SP-25 group by the Field Director Shri P.K.Savani (Adv from Gujarat) and Co-Field Director Shri Mool Singh Rathore (Govt teacher from Rajasthan, 09461501754). It is Mr. Savani’s last trek as Field Director. Mr. Mool Singh Rathore was camp leader, perhaps in last camp, during my Jaiselmer Trek in November 2007. They were assisted by camp leaders at base camp including  M.B.Balaji (Mob no. 08902364480, 08961436348) (affectionately called ‘Dada’) from Calcutta who is generally a camp leader in Sandakphu trek. Mr. Savani is leaving tomorrow, leaving the command to Mr. Mool Singh Rathore.

They gave us useful tips about the whole trek : what to wear, what to take up with us in our rucksack in the trek, what are the obstacles and difficulties we may face during trek and how to overcome them, etc.

After the orientation, we strolled in the market. At 5 pm, we returned to the base camp as we were being issued the rucksack, two blankets and one inner sheet.

At 8 pm, camp fire was organized (without any fire !) under the big tent, which was attended by participants of group SP-24, SP-25 and SP-26. Our group SP-25 was the organizer (Master of Ceremonies was Ananth 08657350847 ananth02@gmail.com from our group).

Since we were initially booked for SP-26 but changed to SP-25, we missed acclimatization walk of SP-25 which was in the morning today. Mr. Shoban (from Bangalore, 09845901968) was chosen as the Group Leader of SP-25 during the same. He has his business of Service Apartments in Bangalore.

At 9.30 pm, the bournvita was served and the camp fire came to an end. At 10 pm, lights off. We gossiped with other participants in the tent. In our tent, few participants of SP-26 were also staying. We were 8 persons in one tent.

Day 2 : 27^th May 2014 Tuesday : Kasol

The morning tea was served at 5 am. All participants of SP-25 and SP-26 assembled in the campus area of base camp at 5.30 am and walked about 1 km to a huge ground adjoining a hotel. The morning exercises were conducted here by the instructors Mr. Lakshmi (with long hairs), Mr. Banu Bhandari (09816144221) and Mr. Manoj. (These guys also organize private treks).

At 7.30 am, we returned to the base camp. At 8.15 am, participants of SP-25 and SP-26 lined up to see off and cheer members of SP-24 group who were leaving base camp and going to higher camps.

At 9 am, we members of SP-25 walked about 1 ½ km through the market to nearby jungle. The same three persons/instructors who conducted exercise in the morning, conducted rock climbing session. Mr. Lakshmi explained us the importance of rock climbing and rappling devices like carabiner, harness (rope), descender, helmet. Almost all members did rock climbing. In this, one would use the tips of his fingers and toes to climb up through the minute crevices in the rock. To ensure that he does not get injured if he falls, he is tied by a rope harness and carabiner whose control is with the instructor sitting at top of the rock.

At about 1 pm, we all returned to the base camp and had lunch.

After lunch, at about 2 pm, we again went to the same spot, this time for Rappling. Rappling is an exercise by which a person descends down a rock using rope and devices. The same three instructors conducted this session.

After the rappling session was over, at about 4.30 pm, we all roamed in the market. Few bought rain coat as it was to become very handy during rains while trekking to higher camps. I, amit and Pankaj went to Manikaran (4 km, 10 min bus journey from Kasol) and I bought new shoes as my liberty trekking shoe’s (gliders)sole had broken in the morning.

At 5.30 pm, we returned to the base camp. We stuffed essential items and clothings in the rucksack provided by YHAI and deposited the remaining/extra luggage in the cloak room of base camp. The camp leaders at base camp checked everyone’s rucksack and advised to further reduce the weight by removing unwanted articles like shaving kits, cosmetics, food articles etc. While trekking at height, the weight of the stuff in the rucksack becomes very important : the more the weight, the more the strain and unease during trekking.

Dinner was served at 8 pm. After that, I, Amit and Pankaj, after taking permission of the field Director, went to the market and booked return Volvo tickets from Bhuntar to Delhi for 4^th June (Rs.1100/- each). After that, we returned to the base camp where camp fire was going on. At 10.30 pm, lights out. We all were thrilled and excited at the thought of moving to higher camps tomorrow.

Day 3 : 28^th May 2014 Wednesday : Kasol base camp to Grahan

We all woke up at 6 am in the base camp and deposited the blankets and sleeping bag. Took bath and freshen up. Then we all took breakfast.

At 8 am, we members of SP-25 assembled in the campus area. We were total 43 participants in SP-25 (31 boys, 12 girls). Mr. Shoban was the Group leader. I happened to be the most experienced person in the group, having done almost all the treks of YHAI and having done this trek twice in the past.

At 8.30 am, the members of SP-26 and SP-27 alongwith camp leaders and Field director at base camp cheered us while we walked out in line to go to the higher camps. Each member was given YHAI cap and a packet containing frooti, biscuit packet and toffees. It has become sort of customary for the members to devise a slogan for their respective groups. Our group members had devised the slogan “UP UP IN THE SKY, SP TWENTY FIVE”. One thing remarkable about our group was that almost all were youngsters and more than 80% were first time trekkers. Infact, I happened to the 2^nd oldest member of the group after Pankaj Jain ! Aman was the youngest member of the group.

The guide who accompanied us for today’s trek from Kasol to Grahan was Mr. Jaichand (09816473518). He is resident of Kasol. He also organises private treks.

We walked though the Kasol market and then took a detour from the market into the jungle. It was an up and down journey from Kasol to Grahan. We rested at few points. After crossing two wooden bridges, we rested for about 45 minutes at a point and played antakshri. The guide advised that we are not supposed to enter the next camp before 3 pm and that we can therefore go leisurely.

At about 1 pm, we all sat at a point and took lunch. I do not relish the packed lunch provided by the YHAI and thus I do not take the pack lunch and instead eat the stuff sold by some enterprising village persons on the way. There was a make-a-shift stall put up by the village lady alongwith her son Dinesh. Her husband Ram Lal (who is accredited with the famous folk song of Grahan : meri sridevia katthe chali tu) has gone with a private group to Mantalai trek. Dinesh has cleared 12^th class exams this year and he wants to do course in tourism. They were selling egg, omlette, Maggie and packed foods like chips, frootie, cold drinks etc. We took 6 boiled eggs (@ Rs.15/- per egg) and two egg bhurji (@ Rs.30/- per egg).

At about 2 pm, we again started walking. From here, the guide was one Mr. Maniram of Grahan village. He informed that this year, the snow in Hinachal Pradesh is unprecedented and has broken all records. He told that he is 50 years old and he has not seen this much snow in his village in his entire life (this year, 6 ft snow in village Grahan in December-January compared to about 3 ft usually). He further told that there is huge snow this year at Sar Pass.

After walking for about 1 km from lunch point, we had to climb up the mountain through the jungle. The climb became steeper and steeper in the last about two km stretch before reaching Grahan village. The climb took us to Village Grahan. We passed through the village and took some snaps. The village had totally transformed over the years. There were now so many Home Stays / guest houses in the village, which I was told, were frequented by the adventurous foreigners.

Our camp was pitched about a km walk away from the village. The camp was visible from the village. 

At 4.30 pm, we reached the Grahan camp which was at an altitude of 7700 ft. We were welcomed by the camp leaders Mr. Anand (from Karnataka, retired from Wipro in 2012) (ananda_hm1@yahoo.co.in, facebook : ananda-bangalore) and Mr. Dinesh Kumar Singh (working in PWD, Lucknow). They gave us the necessary instructions about the timings for soup, dinner, camp fire, morning tea, breakfast, packed lunch and departure next morning. They also informed about the separate toilet areas for boys and girls. Three toilets for boys and one toilet for girls, were pitched nearby on temporary basis by erecting enclosure with cloth sheet with zipper (Indian toilet sheet embedded into ground over a septic tank). The water for washing as well as drinking was provided through pipe, drawn from a stream. The cook was a handsome jolly boy from Delhi, named Ramnath Paswan.

The Bicchu leaves plants are in abundance in this region. These leaves have tiny stings at their periphery. If a person get stung by it, it causes irritation for few hours. The cure for this is the Bicchu buti which grows in its vicinity, which are dark green colored leaves. For finding out more about the Medicinal and aromatic plants of Himachal Pradesh, you may log on to http://books.google.co.in/books?id=gAQnTAU-3lcC&pg=PA560&lpg=PA560&dq=bichhu+leaves+in+himachal&source=bl&ots=pbGfw227be&sig=LVvmn-mfUyARlPsDoKyrR5LRK4o&hl=en&sa=X&ei=cWWQU5fyHIyTuATI94GwBA&ved=0CCgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=bichhu%20leaves%20in%20himachal&f=false )

On arrival in the camp, we were offered litchi juice as welcome drink. Then after half an hour, we were offered tea and biscuits. We were served with delicious tomoto soup at 6.30 pm. The dinner was served at 7 pm, which comprised Bhindi, dal, roti, papad and suji halwa. Then, the camp leader provided one sleeping bag and one blanket to each member. Three tents were allotted to boys and one tent was allotted to girls.

The local villager offered to sell the local snacks / cuisine called Siddu. It is made up of atta (whole wheat flour) with stuffing as per liking like potato, walnut etc. It looks like Momos in appearance.

At 8 pm, members sat out in open and sang songs. Bournvita was served at 9 pm. I sat with co-member Chandan (email : ckiitkgp@gmail.com) and was amazed at his knowledge about spiritualism and God. He informed that he hails from Patna and is a IIT-Kharagpur graduate and now works with TCS, Bangalore. He has done Mining Engineering. I had good discussion with him on spirituality.

The sky was very clear and was full of stars. It was a beautify view.

At 11 pm, we went to sleep. We 12 persons slept in one tent.

There was electricity in the village but there was no electricity in our camp. There was no mobile signal here. 

Day 4 : 29^th May 2014 Thursday : Grahan to Padri

We got up at 6 am. From 6.30 to 7.15 am, I did pranayam in the lap of nature away from the hustle bustle of the camp. I felt so much at peace and it sort of rejuvenated me.

At 8 am, the breakfast was served which comprised of aloo subzi, puri, sevian and tea. In packed lunch, chana and roti was provided. We returned back the sleeping bag and blankets.

At 9 am, we all assembled, thanked the camp leaders and cooking staff and at 9.15 am, we all moved for the next higher camp. Our guide for today was the same Mr. Maniram (resident of Grahan village).

For about 1 ½ km, we had to go down till the water stream / nallah. From here, it was up and up. The  climb / ascent was quite steep (though not as steep as was yesterday on way to Grahan). We rested at one place.

At 12 pm, we reached lunch point. A make-a-shift stall was put up by a Grahan villager here. We took 6 boiled eggs @ Rs.20/- per egg. All took packed lunch there. (15 minutes before the Lunch point, there was a water stream from where all filled up their bottles). We rested at lunch point.

At 1.30 pm, we started from Lunch point. A 20 minute walk upwards from lunch point and lo and behold we were at a dusty glacier ! Everyone was so excited to see the glacier of snow, particularly the first timers (most in our group were first timers, almost half members were from Bangalore). After crossing the glacier, it was about half an hour easy walk when we spotted the YHAI banner of Padri camp in the jungle. After walking 5 min from the banner, we could see the camp site.

At 2.45 pm, we reached the Padri Camp, which is at an altitude of 9300 ft. It is a very beautiful camp site. It felt out of this world. Five-Six tents were pitched in a huge plain / meadow. The imposing mountains covered with snow acted as perfect backdrop. The snow clad mountain peaks were so clear and appeared so near. It gave a feeling as if we were sitting in a 5-D auditorium like I-Max and the mountains were like a big screen / painting on the entire stage. A stream of water was passing by the side of our tents, which added to the beauty of the view around. The herds of sheaps and cows were grazing in the field.

On arrival, we were welcomed by the camp leaders Mr. Subhash Chander Arora (businessman from Ghaziabad) (subashchander9@gmail.com, 09717008644) and Mr. Shibu Dass (Keralite, working in Central Secretariat in Delhi for last 22 years) (sd8999@yahoo.co.in, 09871927076, 01123013360). We all lined up and counting was done, as usual. All got busy in clicking photographs. The weather was sunny and good. I brushed teeth and washed face in the running stream, which itself was a wonderful experience away from the maddening crowd of the city. We were served with tea and peanuts. All got involved in different activities. Some played gilli danda. Some played Frisbee. At 5.10 pm, tomato soup was served. Most of us played the game ‘Dumb charades’. The camp leader informed that Bear occasionally come in this area and that a cow was killed by a bear nearby and cow’s mutilated body is lying about 500 mtr away. Amit ventured to that spot and took photographs.

At 7 pm, dinner was served which comprised dal, loki subzi, rice, roti, papad and kheer. The sleeping bag and blanket were issued. Some rested in tents while others sang songs. It was a starry night and we could very clearly see the stars light up the sky. Such a view is not possible in cities.

There was no electricity and no mobile signal at Padri camp.

At 11 pm, we went to sleep.

Day 5 : 30^th May 2014 Friday : Padri to Ming Thatch

We got up at 5.30 am. We answered nature’s call in the open in the woods nearby. There were temporary toilets put up but the same were smelling. So most preferred to go out in the open, since it was a large jungle area. The running stream of water helped a lot.

As we were getting ready to pack our bags and leave the camp, it started raining at about 6.30 am, coupled with ole. We experienced the first rains in our trek. This is going to make today’s trek difficult and riskier because today our route is steep climb. Rains stopped after about 40 minutes. We all came out of our tents and took breakfast which comprised poha and daliya. At 7.45 am, packed lunch was provided which comprised aloo (dry) subzi and roti. Our guides for today were Tashi (young boy from Darjeeling) and Ishwar Singh (of Grahan village). I took a stick (@ Rs.20/-) being sold by the locals there, courtesy Ishwar Singh. I, as others, wore the rain suits.

At 8.10 am, we started from the Padri camp. As we moved, the drizzle gradually turned into rains. We went down and down upto the water stream/nallah.  The path had become extremely slippery. We then again trekked up and then again down. The path had become slippery. The climb was steep. We crossed over many nallahs on the way.

At 1.15 pm, we stopped at a place where Praveen (?) Rathore, a local boy was selling cold drinks, biscuits, chips etc. I bought frootie bottle @ Rs.50/- and some salted snacks and chocolate.

At 2 pm, we reached lunch point. It started raining. We all took shelter under the tent put up by the chaiwala. We took omlette @ Rs.50/- and tea @ Rs.30/-. After the rain stopped, we clicked photographs. My pant of the rain coat had got totally torn due to continuous up and down movement on the path.

At 3.30 pm, we started from the lunch point. Tashi guide went back from here. Rathore, the young boy who was selling eatables, took his place, alongwith Ishwar Singh.

There was a huge ground and valley after that. From here, we could spot the banner of YHAI Ming thatch at the top of the hillock which we had now to climb. We were elated.

We climbed the hillock. It was fairly steep. Today’s trek was the toughest and lengthiest. 

At 5 pm, we reached the Ming thatch camp, which is at an altitude of 11,200 ft. We were welcomed by the Camp Leader Mr. Moon Singh Rathore (physical education teacher in Jalore, Rajasthan( (09414895206). We put our wet clothes under the sun.

At 5.15 pm, we were served with hot tea and two aloo bonda each. It was such a delight. It was a good camp site. We watched the sunset from here. The kitchen and water point (water by pipe from glacier) were downstairs. At 6 pm, tomato soup was served. At 7 pm, dinner was served. At 8 pm, bournvita was served. We gazed at the stars in the sky which was so clear. We were able to see constellations like saptarishi, scorpio, dhanur etc. very clearly. The milky way was also partially visible.

At 10 pm, we went to sleep.

There is no electricity here but the mobile signal was partially catching on going a little up from the camp site.

Day 6 : 31^st May 2014 Saturday : Ming Thatch to Nagaru

We woke up at 7 am. The temporary toilets were smelly and hence almost all went out in the open in the topsy turvy jungle for answering nature’s call. Going out and then coming back to the tents was itself a mini trek ! The breakfast was served at 8.30 am which comprised poori, aloo subzi, sevian, tea and thereafter packed lunch was provided. I washed my face after the sun rays kissed our camp.

At 10.15 am, we started from the Ming thatch camp. Our guides for today were Gopi, Praveen and Devi singh. There is no water after Ming Thatch camp till Biskeri (At Nagaru, water is taken out from glacier and it is very very cold) and hence all filled up their water bottles fully.

Our route today was climb up but not too steep like what we experienced from Padri to Ming Thatch. We passed through snow patches at several points on the way. Today, we all moved in a queue and the three guides helped us in making way by their footsteps in the snow patches. Most of the time during climb, we had very beautiful view of the snow clad mountains all around.

At 12 pm, we reached the lunch point. It was a good sunny day. I listened to songs on my Sony MP3, sitting leisurely on a rock.

Soon, it started drizzling and at about 1.15 pm, we all started from the lunch point. Ultimately, a large patch of snow, on which we trekked, took us to our tents in Nagaru camp.

At 3 pm, we reached Nagaru camp, which is at an altitude of 12,300 ft. This camp was actually on a glacier. It was too windy here, coupled with a mild hailstorm. We were welcomed by the Camp leader Mr. Akshay Dange (from Maharashtra). Three tents were provided for the boys. Thick sleeping bags were provided here, alongwith blanket. The facilities are scarce here because of the inclement weather and strong winds all the time, being on top of the hill. We found the behavior and tone of the camp leader and cooking staff a little rude, which we ignored, as anyone living at such height and under such harsh circumstances and adverse conditions for so long would become rude. The wind was at its furriest and it looked as if the wind would blow away our tents. We immediately changed our clothes (as these were wet due to sweat) in our tents. After some time, it became sunny and we all came out, though wind continued. We sat here and there on whatever little grassy patch was available and clicked photographs. Some sang songs and some danced. We were surprised to get mobile signal here, though there was no electricity. Most spoke to their relatives back home on their mobiles.

At 3.45 pm, we were served with coffee and peanuts. At 4.30 pm, tomato soup was served. Slowly and gradually, the sun went behind the clouds and it became too cold. All went back into the tents and put on thermals and other clothes to save from the cold and wind. One unique thing here was that there was no facility for toilet. Though they tried to put up temporary toilets and even brought toilet sheets, but the wind blew away the toilet tent. So, anyone desirous of answering nature’s call has to do so on the snow itself a little away from the camp with no place for hiding, in such chilling environment ! So, almost everyone decided to skip this activity here and most skipped the dinner.

The wind was very strong and the members hold on to the structure of the tents lest the tent blow away by the gust of the wind.

At 6 pm, we all went to the sleep.

Day 7 : 1^st June 2014 Sunday : Nagaru to Sar Pass to Biskeri

Today was the longest part of our trek, running into 14 km and most of the trek was through snow.

We woke up at 2.30 am. The bad weather was awaiting us. The drizzle soon turned into snowfall which changed to rainfall. We waited in our tents for rain to abate. We had planned to start for next camp at 4 am but the rain spoiled our plans. We got ready in our tents but the rain and strong chilly winds prevented us from coming out of our tents. In a brief 15 min period when the rain stopped, we returned the sleeping bags and blankets.

At 5.45 am, when the rain stopped partially, we started for the next camp through Sar Pass. We were helped by four guides – Nihal Singh, Ram Prakash, Shyam Lal and bhikam Ram. They were to guide us upto Biskeri Top in the snow. They all are from Grahan village.

We walked and climbed on snow clad mountains. The entire journey was on snow. The Nagaru camp itself was on snow, made by cutting the snow. We climbed for about 1 ½ hours continuously, in one queue, by following the footsteps prepared by the guide in front. It rained and snow fall on the way intermittently.

After three hours of climbing, walking and climbing, at about 8.45 am, we reached Sar Pass, which is at an altitude of 13800 ft. We faced blizzard here. The snow was flowing at furious speed with the wind. I had to put on the goggles even in such dark, to protect the eyes from blizzard. The snow fall was continuing since morning. It was too windy here. Our rain suits were turning out to be ineffective and most of us were getting wet. Surprisingly, at this altitude and under such bad weather and at such freezing temperature, one person under a small tent under the snow crevice was making and selling tea ! This was really amazing. Few sipped tea in such freezing temperature. From there, we walked on snow mountain for about half hour. Thereafter, the journey was up and down on snow, crossing the snow clad mountains. It was all white everywhere. Some of us were tired of walking and climbing on snow. Frequently, our foot went down under the snow upto knee.

After several hours, we reached a point which is called Biskeri top. This is the highest point after Sar Pass. It is at a height of 13500 ft. The last 50 ft before reaching Biskeri top were climbed by us by holding on to the rope already installed there. From here, new guides took over  : Om Prakash (08894000812, 09418432012, omprakash.adventure@gmail.com), Rajesh (09805285588, 08988288154), Ram Kishan @ Ramu (09805601570). Rajesh is from Mandi while Ramu is from Grahan. Om Prakash was their leader and he organizes private treks also.

From Biskeri top, there was a long slide down the hill in snow. We sat down on top with our rucksack on our shoulder and then started sliding down. Aman lost his mobile phone during sliding. Thereafter, we walked down on snow and again there was a slide, followed by long walk down on the snow. We reached lunch point which was a make-a-shift tent put up by a villager on the snow. He was selling maggi, omlete, tea etc. It was continuously raining since morning. I was completely drenched, so were few others. Due to this, the weight of clothes and belongings had become heavier. I, Amit and Aman took omlette, magi and tea, shivering under the tent while our rucksacks were out in the open under the rainfall. After lunch point, there were two long slides, which gave us the feeling of a roller coaster. Thereafter, we walked down on the muddy slippery path. I was delighted to see the green trees and vegetation. I felt as if we were in white snow for many days and as if we were seeing the greenery after several days. Under the rains, we reached the Biskeri camp. Many members slipped on the way.

At 1.15 pm, we reached Biskeri camp, which is at an altitude of 11000 ft. The camp leader Mr. Aditya (09505746991, fb: aditya tibrewal) came half a km up to receive and welcome us and to boost our morale. It was a nice gesture on his part. He is from Bhagalpur (Bihar) and is studying Computer Science in BITS Pilani Hyderabad campus.

I was totally drenched. It was continuously raining. We immediately occupied our allotted tents. To my surprise, when I opened my rucksack, I discovered that all my extra clothing and everything in the rucksack had got wet due to snow, hailstorm and rains ! Though the YHAI rucksack was supposed to be waterproof, but the snow and rainwater had peeped into the rucksack, making everything wet. Fortunately, the undergarments which were kept in a separate polythene bags in the rucksack were spared from this ordeal. I changed the clothes and wore a semi wet pyjama and borrowed a shirt from Pankaj jain. This was the only clothing I was left with. I was shivering and was having severe headache as I had not eaten any food for last several hours due to lack of toilet facilities. The camp leader promptly issued me a sleeping bag, and later a blanket also, at my request. It made me feel cozy, which was a great relief. I did not step out of the tent as it was cold and windy outside and with these clothes, I was bound to get sick and get wet the only dry clothes left with me if stepped out. At 4 pm, tea and Pakora were served. At 5 pm, tomato soup was served but I was sleeping in my sleeping bag and recovering. At 6 pm, dinner was served. Pankaj and tent-mates helped me in bringing the dinner for me in my tent, which comprised of Loki subzi, roti, papad and guess what ! Gulab Jamun ! The cook was Shiva from Delhi (works with Seven Seas caterers in Delhi). Amit and Aman skipped the dinner, they were also shivering. We were 9 persons in our tent. Each member was given one sleeping bag but no blanket. At my request, the camp leader gave one blanket for me and one for Aman, as our condition was not good.

We slept with the thought that if weather remain this harsh tomorrow also, then we will skip the next camp and go directly to Barseni which is about 3 hour trek from here and from there take a bus to the base camp Kasol which is one hour bus journey from Barseni. 

Day 8 : 2^nd June 2014 Monday : Biskeri to Bandak thatch

At 6.15 am, I woke up by the rays of the sun kissing our tent. Everybody got elated on seeing the bright sunshine after bracing bad weather yesterday. It eventually turned out to be a bright sunny day ! Few members who had decided to end the trek and go directly to Kasol, like us, changed their mind on seeing bright sun. We all took out our wet clothes and belongings and spread out on the grass and on the tents for drying under the sun. It presented the view of a relief camp.

The sun, in literal sense, changed all of us. I realized the importance and power of sunshine. Many answered nature’s call after two days, in the open near to snow patch behind bushes and trees. The mobile signal was available here but no electricity, as usual. The dinner, which I unwillingly took in the night, did wonder. My headache was gone and I felt rejuvenated again in the sun. I freshen up, washed face and took some snaps. I and Amit sat with yesterday’s guides Om Prakash etc who were going to leave shortly for Biskeri Top to fetch the next group.

At 8.30 am, the breakfast was served which comprised of poori, aloo subzi, sevian and tea. There was a water stream nearby. Two pipes from nearby glacier piece catered to  washing etc. It was a good camp site with wonderful close view of snow clad mountains with tall trees surrounding the camp. 

At 10.45 am, after sufficiently drying our clothes and belongings, we started from the Biskeri camp. Our guides were Tara Mani and Tulsi Ram (both from village Pulga). It was a steep descent all the way for 2 hours upto the lunch point. After some time, we climbed down through terrace stepping in the fields. We spotted pink colored flowers called Fshanter on small trees / jhad, which were prominent in this area. We crossed a deserted dera on the way. We crossed water stream / nallah at  various places. Mr. Moon singh Rathore (camp leader at Ming Thatch) was also accompanying us from Ming thatch. This region has Tosh and Kayal trees in abundance. These look like Devdar tree. Kayal tree produces oil which is used for burning.

At about 1 pm, at the lowest point on this route, we came down by rappling for about 40 ft between the rocks using a rope tied there by YHAI. After rappling, we landed at the foot of a big nallah, which we crossed by a temporary bridge made of 3 wooden logs tied together across the nallah. Then we climbed up where the local villager Krishna and her son Brij Lal from Pulga village had put up a temporary stall. I and Amit relished sweet curd lassi here, made locally out of fresh cow milk. It was so refreshing. We sipped five glass each. She charged Rs.10/- per glass. This was our lunch point.

At 2 pm, we started from the lunch point. The up and down journey took us through the jungle trail which was obstructed by fallen tree trunks at few places. We crossed over fallen trees. After about 45 min from lunch point, we came across a steep inclined trail almost about 50 degrees running about 60 mtr in length. We then passed through a long dusty frozen glacier, beneath which water stream was flowing.

Last 40 minutes were a steep ascent of about 45 degrees which was really strenuous, after so many hours of descent.

At 4.15 pm, we reached the next camp Bandak Thatch, which is at an altitude of 9000 ft. It turned out to be the most beautiful camp site. It is sometimes also called the Switzerland of India. It is a very large meadow spread over hundreds of acres in the mountains, totally lush green, surrounded by snow mountains on all sides. The tents, pitched in lush green grounds, presented a beautiful view. Cows, buffalos, sheaps and goats were grazing in the ground. Many water streams, in parallel, were passing through the meadow.  Some members played gilli danda, some played Frisbee. Some just sit and relaxed. All enjoyed the sunshine. The cow dung was littered everywhere in green fields. At about 6.45 pm, the sun went down and it suddenly became cold.

At 7 pm, the tomato soup was served, which as usual worked as tonic. At 7.30 pm, we were issued the sleeping bag and blanket and then the dinner was served. There was no camp leader at this camp and hence Subhash (cook from Delhi) substituted for the camp leader. We were getting mobile signal here but no electricity. At 8 pm, several members sang songs in the big tent made available by subhash as it was cold outside. I, Amit and Pankaj gossiped in tent and went to sleep. In the night at about 2 pm, I and Pankaj saw starry sky and could even spot milky way partially.

Day 9 : 3^rd June 2014 Tuesday : Bandak thatch to Barseni to Kasol

We woke up at 7 am. The sun rays had already kissed our campus area by then. Members answered nature’s call downward in the woods after crossing the open ground. At 7.15 am, the breakfast was served which comprised parantha, pickle and tea. No packed lunch was given today.

At 8.30 am, we all started from the Bandak thatch camp. Subhash led the way for us for about half km. There is no guide today and we have to reach our next destination following the arrow marks on trees and rocks. We climbed down the distance which we had climbed up during last lag yesterday.  It was all down and down. The descent was very steep. Mukesh Parmar ji (from Rajasthan, 09414206388) who enthralled us with beautiful rendition of songs during the entire trek, was feeling pain in his left knee while climbing down.

We passed through village Tulka. There are three villages here : Pulga, Kalga and Tulka. The foreigners frequent the village Pulga where many guest houses have come up over the years (15 years back, the YHAI camp used to be at Pulga). On the way, a Hydel power project and dam by NHPC was under construction by a contractor Patel Engineering.  Just after crossing the village and project site, was Barseni village.

At 12 pm, we reached Barseni bus stand. I and Amit took lassi. The bus started at 12.10 pm (the bus comes generally every hour). We 27 members boarded the bus, the remaining had not yet reached the bus stand and they will catch the next bus. Barseni to Manikaran is 16 km and bus ticket cost Rs.25/- per person.

At 1 pm, we reached Manikaran. Three members got down here to take hot water spring bath. After waiting for passengers, the bus started again at 1.30 pm for Bhuntar via Kasol. Manikaran to Kasol is 4 km and bus ticket cost Rs.5/- per person.

At 2 pm, we got down at Kasol base camp. We 24 members entered the basecamp amidst chanting of our group slogan. We were welcomed by Mr. Mool singh Rathore, Moon Singh Rathore, Balaji and other camp leaders at base camp. We were allotted tents. I took refund of Rs.800/- from Diwanji as I had paid for the bus tickets for all the members.

I, amit and aman went to the market and searched for a good hotel. Though we could stay in the tents in basecamp tonight, but we were fed up of staying in tents and wanted to roam about in Kasol like a tourist and see its night life, which was not possible had we stayed in basecamp. At 3 pm, we returned to basecamp. The rest of the members including our group leader Shoban had not yet returned and so our luggage which was buried under their luggage in the cloak room could not be taken out. They came at about 5 pm. We collected our luggage from the cloak room and returned the YHAI rucksack and sleeping sheet. All filled in the check out form and feedback form and collected the Trek completion certificate. Madhav, young boy who knows French and doing course in Tourism, working as camp leader at basecamp, helped us in this entire process. I stuffed all my belongings in my rucksack. Few members of our group bid good bye and left for their respective abodes.

At 7 pm, I, Amit and aman shifted to Purnima Guest House (Pankaj jain stayed in basecamp), which was next to the basecamp. Infact, from back side of camp, one can just cross through the barbed wire and enter the Guest house. It had fairly good spacious rooms having attached bathroom and toilet with geyser. We took one room (Room no.103 on Gr flr) with one extra bedding/mattress, for Rs.700/-. I put on my mobile after 9 days and put the camera battery for charging. I took bath after so many days and felt refreshing.

I, aman and Amit strolled in the market to find out a place to relax and unwind. Aman went to a cyber café to do some pending works. I, amit took food in Evergreen Restaurant, which is one of the best restaurants here in Kasol. The Food in Kasol is comparatively cheaper. The food for two of us, which comprised 1 malai kofta, 1 garlic naan and 2 tandoori roti, costed only Rs.180/- ! Then we walked back towards our guest house, to Yerpa Restaurant and Bar. The interior was superb and it could beat any ‘A’ rated restaurant and pub of Delhi. We took 60 ml pegs of smirinoff vodka, masala papad and cheese onion mushroom pizza. It remains open till 12.30 am. So many foreigners could be seen in the restaurant.

At about 11 pm, we returned to the Guest house. To our pleasant surprise, 21 members of our group were sitting in the lawn of the guest house and were having food, snacks and drinks. Aman was also with them. We joined them. Some of them were staying in the same guest house and some were staying in nearby guest house. We dispersed at 2 am in the night. It was one of the unforgettable night. We enjoyed the songs by Mukesh ji.

At 2.30 am, we went to sleep.

Day 10 : 4^th June 2014 Wednesday : Kasol to Delhi

We got up at 9 am in the Purnima Guest house. I shaved after 10 days and took bath. At 12 pm, we checked out of the Guest house and kept our luggage at the reception thereof. I, amit and aman went to Little Italy restaurant which is a famous food joint here. One can have a view of the main market and road of Kasol from here. We took pizza, burger, grilled cheese sandwich, strawberry lassi here. The food was delicious.

Pankaj jain came there. With him, we went to YHAI basecamp and said good bye to shri Mool singh Rathore, Moon singh rathore, Bala, Madahv and other camp leaders.

At 3 pm, we stood outside the basecamp on the main road to catch the bus to Bhuntar. At 3.25 pm, we waived hands and boarded bus outside Yhai. At 3.45 pm, our bus reached Jari. At 4.40 pm, our bus reached Bhuntar bus stand. We got down here. We walked to office of Swagatam tours, opp Bhuntar Post office. We confirmed our Delhi tickets here. He informed that bus has already started from Manali and may reach about 6.15 pm here. We walked past fruit shops. We sat in a eatery and took cold drink and chips. We watched movie in the office of tour operator. At 6.40 pm, the Volvo bus (Anmol Travels/bus no. 3431) arrived.

At 6.45 pm, the Volvo bus started.

At 9.30 pm, it halted for 45 min at a dhaba at Sundrnagar for dinner.

Day 11 : 5^th June 2014 Thursday : Delhi

At 6.30 am, the Volvo bus reached ISBT, Delhi. We all got down. Aman’s father picked us in his car.

At 7 am, I reached home.

Another good trek came to an end.

Important points and tips :

# During the entire trek, my Sony Walkman MP3 came very handy. Wherever we rested or halted for a long time, I listened to my favorite songs on it which instantly transported me to an altogether different world in conjunction with the beautiful view around me.

# Though almost everyone in our group was a singer in his or her own right, I would like to make a special mention about two girls – Rini and Mridula. These two bubbly girls were the ‘FM Radio’ of our group and never got tired of singing songs continuously during trek and kept us all enthralled by their rendition of beautiful songs throughout the trek.

# As we climb higher and higher, the prices of food items go on increasing, which is quite understandable.

# As told by the camp leader M.B. Bala, one of the way to protect from cold in mountains is to take 1 spoon of honey everyday after dinner there and so purchase 250 gm of honey. If feeling hungry, then take 2 pcs of Threptin biscuits, they will substitute for the food. Similar function is performed by Horlicks tablets.

# There is no electricity in any of the camps on Sar Pass route. The first two camps have no mobile signal while the next 4 camps have mobile signal.

# When moving to higher camps, put all clothings and articles in separate polythene bags and then put these bags in the rucksack, to prevent them from getting wet.

# While walking in snow and while climbing, ensure that you have a stick with you. While sliding in snow, keep all belongings secured under the rucksack under zip as these may get lost in snow during sliding.

# For protection from rain and snowfall, take a proper and effective rain coat / poncho.

# Keep weight of the articles in your rucksack to the minimum. After all, you have to carry this weight. The lesser the weight, the more the comfort.

# I have given the contact numbers and email addresses of various camp leaders and guides, wherever possible. More information about a particular camp or route can be requested from them.