Trek to Pancheri - Sankri Devta - Natha Top – Sanasar – Patnitop - Gauri Kund - Shudh Mahadev - Mantalai in Jammu & Kashmir
By Sunil Goel with YHAI from 28 May to 4th June 2011
28th May 2011 Saturday
I, my cousins Kamal and Anshul started from our home in Punjabi Bagh, New Delhi at about 7.30 pm with our ruck-sacks resting on our back. We boarded Metro Train from Punjabi Bagh and got down at Kashmere Gate station. From there, we took an auto and reached the Bus Operators shops near LalQuila. Bought bus tickets for Jammu from Solanki Travels, Shop No.26 (they charged Rs.2500/- for 2 sleeper berth and Rs.1000/- for a seat). They transported us, alongwith 6-7 other passengers, in a matador jeep to a spot in Wazirabad where the buses were parked. We boarded the sleeper coach bus. It was a big bus having several births for sleeping and several seats for sitting. This was my first experience to travel in a bus having sleeping facility.
The bus started at about 9 pm from Wazirabad. There was huge traffic within Delhi (probably due to Saturday) and it took more than an hour to come out of Delhi itself. The bus stopped for dinner on the way at Kurekshetra at about 1.30 am in the night. Thereafter, the bus continued its journey to Jammu.
29th May 2011 Sunday
The bus reached Jammu bus stand at about 10 am. We got down there (the bus was going to Katra and our tickets were also valid till Katra). We spotted a good looking restaurant (Khana Kh
azana) nearby on the road itself. We were feeling hungry and it was already 10 am. We freshen up in the restaurant itself and took breakfast.
At about 11 am, we took another bus from there for Udhampur. It cost us Rs.40/- per person. The bus waited for the bus to be filled in by passengers. During this time, the hawkers came one by one in the bus and displayed their items. One hawker was selling one chain with ring for just Rs.10/-. Another hawker was selling a small equipment for juice extraction directly from juicy fruits for just Rs.20/- ! I was surprised by their marketing skills.
The bus proceeded to Udhampur via Nagrota village. After about 15 km from Jammu, there was a spot where there was diversion : one way was going to Katra and other way was going to Udhampur.
At about 1.30 pm, our bus reached Udhampur. We got down at ARTO, near Devak (1/2 km short of Udhampur bus stand). It was hot and humid here and we were disturbed by this fact as we had expected pleasant / cold weather here. We walked about 2 minutes to our base camp which was housed in community hall, Devak (across nalla). Greeted by incharge/cook Pawan Sharma (cell: 9697137409, 9697137206). He belongs to village Landhar near village Pancheri. He served us with lunch. Thereafter, Mr. Vikas Sharma (camp leader) (cell : 9419918283) arrived. He is from Deptt. of Youth & Sports and is a volunteer here. We submitted our YHAI forms to him and paid fees of Rs.2500/- per person. Kamal and Anshul took YHAI ruck-sacks on rent of Rs.25/- each. I decided to carry my own ruck sack brought by me. We met fellow participants. They were Mr. Sudhir Bagade (Asst. Professor in SNDT College, Mumbai, cell : 09869374600) and 7 school students of Class VIII from some Jammu School (at Ghordi) accompanied with their teacher Mr. Vishwand Singh (09858022829).
At about 3.30 pm, we 12 persons with guide Mr. Jagdish Lal Sharma boarded a bus from the road and started our journey to Pancheri. The route was dotted with Chir trees. Local people extract resin from it. I could notice cut in down arrow shape in several trees with a metal sheet at the bottom of arrow and the resin through sheet getting collected in container tied below.
At about 5.45 pm, we reached Village Pancheri. Met guide Mr.Rakesh there (he is teacher in some local school). We got down from the bus there (the bus was going ahead to Village Lander). Pancheri is a hill resort / village perched with Deodar forest on one side and a small hilltop township on the other. We came down from the road to the village for sightseeing and walked about 2 km to reach Dak Bangla (Forest Rest House). It was vast meadow surrounded by gigantic Deodar trees. On the way, Mohd. Shafi, Head constable from Pancheri police station JK Police was deputed to escort us through the next phase of the trek. After enjoying there, we returned back to the road.
At about 7 pm, we started our climb from Pancheri to Sankri Devta. It was getting dark. It started drizzling accompanied with thundershowers. Seeing this, we increased our speed to avoid getting wet on a difficult terrain having no shelter and with weather becoming darker and darker. Few hundred meters short of Sankri, it got windy accompanied with lightening.
At about 8.15 pm, we reached Sankri Devta camp. It was housed in a small school building. There was a small shop for biscuits etc. Sankri Devta is famous as the abode of Lord Shiva. Our accommodation was arranged in the community hall which was recently constructed and resembled like a 2 star hotel. The camp leader was one Gopal who was a locale. The electricity had just went off due to high velocity winds and downpour. We were served with tea and pakora. Another participant Mr. Shubhendu Konar (Software engineer from Bangalore, cell : 09741392422) joined us there at about 9 pm. The weather became pleasant. At 10.30 pm, we were served dinner. It was simple nutritious food : rice, potato/paneer, salad, chapati. We all moved to big room in the community hall building for sleeping. There were 10 beds. There were also 10 mattresses placed on floor. All these were provided with blankets. We slept on beds, children slept on mattresses on floor. There were 4 attached toilets and 4 attached bathrooms. The weather got cold outside. There was thunderstorm, hailstorm and rains accompanied with high velocity winds in the night at 1 am. Nature’s fury was at its worst. However, we made ourself cozy inside the blankets.
30th May 2011 Monday : Sankri Devta to Natha top
At 6.15 am in the morning, I got up. I went to the terrace and enjoyed the view of the valley all around. I got freshen up, heated the water on the gas, shaved and took bath. There were intermittent rains. Took photos at Sankri Devta mandir in the compound. Then we took breakfast.
At about 9 am, we 13 participants accompanied by Mohd Shafi (J&K police Head constable) and Mr.Kuldeep Singh (guide) started from Sankri Devta for our next camp at Natha Top. It was a strenuous and hard trek : hard, because it was a fairly long trek and we were not mentally prepared for it. The trek from Sankri Devta to Natha Top was about 22 km ! The entire route was up down up down. There were some breathtaking views, meadows on the way. We filled our bottles with water on the way. There was underground natural water source at one or two places on the way. We took packed lunch on way at about 1.30 p.m. There was no place for shelter on the way. I was wearing half sleeve t-shirt. Due to intensity of sun rays, I suffered sun burn on my arms and face. Once should always wear full sleeve t-shirt and proper hat to avoid sun rays on the face. About 2 km before the Nath top camp, I and kamal gave our ruck sacks to the guide as we were not able to move further with rucksacks.
By the time we reached Natha Top camp at about 5 pm, we all were totally tired and exhausted. Natha top is the highest point of this trek and is at a height of 2648 meters or say 9000 ft above sea level. It offers scenic views of peaks like Brahma and other surrounding peaks and valleys. There was no shop or habitation. It was a small plain area where building of Agricultural deptt was located. The tents were perched adjoining this building. There were four huge towers of mobile companies at this spot. Due to these huge towers, this point is visible from all over the J&K valley. Nearby, on the top of Natha top, there is Indian Air force installation with radars who keep an eye on the JK highway. It is an important location strategically from security point of view. We were told that it is due to this reason that the Govt. do not encourage tourist activities and hotels etc. at this place despite the fact that the weather here is more pleasant and cooler than Patnitop. This place was quite windy. The source of water was a natural source (called chashma in local language) at this spot. Even the CRPF (located 1 km away) draws water from this source through pipeline.
We changed our clothes which had become wet from inside due to sweating. We were served with tea and pakoras. The camp leader was Mr.Bittoo sharma (local school teacher). We were issued sleeping bags and blankets. We spread the blankets on the rubber sheets already lying inside the tents. We enjoyed dance of the school kids in the tent on local folk songs. At 9 pm, we were served with dinner. It was quite cold here. At about 10.30 pm, we went to sleep. I could not sleep properly as I had taken blankets which turned out to be insufficient due to too much cold in the night. The sleeping bags were of cloth (and not of nylon).
31st May 2011 Tuesday : Natha Top to Sanasar
I got up at 5 am in the morning. Since it is the highest point, the sun rays had already started kissing this area. We all went a little down amidst shrubs to answer the call of nature. I took bath at the water point. The water felt too cold but I still braved and managed to take bath. Inspired by this, few others also mustered courage to take bath.
After taking breakfast, at about 9.45 am we started our trek for the day to the next camp at Sanasar. We were accompanied by another constable from J&K police and the camp leader. It was a downward journey. The entire route is almost on the motorable coaltar road. However, to give us some joy of trekking, we were taken through short cuts at certain places by walking through the hills / jungle /shrubs. The entire route is dotted with trees – chir, saru, kail and some deodar trees. The trees were very lofty. We suffered sun burn on this stretch also. I could feel the intensity of the sun rays.
At about 2 pm, we reached Sanasar after trekking for about 10 km. From Sanasar bus stand, it was about ¾ km walk down to our camp which comprised of tents perched amidst several cottages. Some school groups were also staying in the cottages. Near to bus stand is the building of Jawahar institute of Mountaineering (JIM). We could see several boys and girls taking training there.
We were greeted on arrival by none other than Shri KK Gandotra (cell: 09419194527), Project Director, YHAI. He was joined by the camp leader Mr.Vijay Kumar (of Jammu) (cell: 07298020420). We sat there in shade and chatted with Mr.Gandotra. There are few shops of daily utilities, snacks, fruits etc. and 2-3 dhabas there. We went to the jungle meadow on the back of our camp (basically a natural park) and took packed lunch there. Bought and ate fruits (banana, water melon).
It is a beautiful picturesque spot. The main attraction is a vast meadow amidst lofty devdar trees with mountains in the background. It reminded me of Khajjiar, another beautiful hill station in Himachal Pradesh (also called Switzerland of India). Sanasar is quite popular station here, though not as popular as Patnitop. This is probably because the road to this place is not very good and accommodation choice is very limited. Amidst the vast meadow, there is a golf course which is not being used nowadays. Till 2 years back, this place also boasted para-gliding but to some incident 2 years back, there is no para-gliding as of now here.
We went down to the vast ground / meadow and played cricket there alongwith guides and locals. Some of us also enjoyed horse riding there. There is a small lake nearby which appear to be stagnating. There were several tourists enjoying there. It appeared to me as if the whole ground was a stage and the mountains and trees at the back was stage background and we were watching the show from near huts as spectators. As the day progressed, school children of other schools calos came on to the ground and played. At 5 pm, we returned to the camp. We were served with tea and pakoras. The kitchen was erected at the back of the tents outside the complex. Suddenly, there were dark clouds and it started raining accompanies with strong winds. I and anshul put on our rain sheets and enjoyed strolling in the rains. There was hailstorm. The weather became pleasant and cooler. The electricity suddenly went off due to constant rains and wind (which could not be restored till morning). We made use of our torches. At 9 pm, we took dinner inside one of the tents as it was raining outside. We enjoyed the dish prepared from Kasrode (local vegetable grown here in plenty). The dish looked and tasted like fried ladyfinger. We felt cold. We slipped into our sleeping bags provided at this camp and went to sleep at 11 pm.
1st June 2011 Wednesday : Sanasar to Patnitop
We woke up at 5.45 am. The sun rays had already kissed the mountains around. YHAI had put up two temporary commodes in the jungle at the back of the camping complex. We answered the call of nature and got freshen up near big water tank nearby besides the wooden hut / cottage. Water is being fed into this tank from some natural source. The tank was overflowing. Everyone brushed teeth and washed hands mouth. The atmosphere was very calm and quiet with no wind flowing; we were standing in the open with just a t-shirt. I took tea and biscuits while others took breakfast. Suddenly, it started drizzling. We bid good bye to the cooking and other staff and Mr.Gandotra and walked to the bus stand.
At 8 am, we reached the bus stand. Last bus from here is at 8 am. We 13 persons got in. The bus charged Rs.10/- per person upto Patnitop. The bus went via Natha top. It started raining and frizzling on the way which continued upto Patnitop. This place is dominated by gujjars. On the way, the gujjars kept getting in to the bus. After about 5-6 km, the bus got filled to the brim by locals / gujjars with their milk containers. There was so much crowd inside that I could not even move my body. I was sitting in front near driver seat. Today, there was unusual crowd in the bus as the 7 am bus did not arrive today. I realised as to how the mobile telecom revolution has changed the lives of the people here. I could see even the bus driver talking on mobile as also the local gujjars.
At about 9.45 am, we reached Patnitop which was a 19 km road journey from Sanasar. It is a world famous hill resort and is at a height of 2024 meter above sea level. It is perched on a beautiful plateau across which Jammu Srinagar highway passes. It comprises of several meadows enveloped by thick forests of Deodar and Kail. It is managed by Patnitop Development Authority (PDA). It was still drizzling. Then it started raining. Everyone of us put on the rain coats. We walked one km upto reach the camp. The trail leading to the camp was dotted with lofty trees on both sides. The camp comprised of the tents perched up a little ahead of the Patnitop youth Hostel building. The weather became foggy and windy. It became very cold. We were allotted tents. We put our ruck sacks in the tents and spread the blankets and sat inside tents waiting for the rain to stop. The camp leader was Mr.Yashpal Mehra (from R S Pura, Jammu. Cell : 09596696770). At about 12 o’clock, when the rain stopped, we ventured out of our tents. Walked down to the children park. Shawl shops and other shops there. Then we walked about 2 km to the Green Park (GP). It is a hustling bustling point with tourists thronging this place in large numbers enjoying eateries and horse riding. The vehicles were lined up on both sides of the road. We took breakfast in a restaurant just short of hotel holiday Inn. We looked for Kaladi (sort of cheese) but could not get it in any shop. We walked inside the Park upto the apple Garden. From there, we saw good view of the entire valley. Then we came down. There are stalls of tea, paan, fruit chaat, golgappe, chole kulche etc. We walked back to the camp. Reached back the camp at about 4.30 pm. We enjoyed tea and pakoras and enjoyed chat with Yashpal Mehra. He incidentally is also the supplier of cooks and ration at other camps in this prog. We then played cricket in the open ground between our camp and Youth hostel building. We played upto 7.30 pm and had to stop playing as it became dark.
The camp leader had 5 speaker set and audio system with him. We attached our mobile to his system and played songs at loud sound and danced. At 8.15 we took dinner. After dinner, we again danced on latest songs upto 10 pm at the demand of the kids participants. Thereafter, we played cards and then went to sleep at 11.30 pm.
2nd June 2011 Thursday : Patnitop to Mantalai via Gauri Kund & Shudh Mahadev
I could not sleep properly in the night as the sleeping bag was very thin and of poor quality. It did not warm up and I felt cold throughout the night. I got up at 5 am and went outside in the jungle to answer the call of nature. Brushed teeth and washed hands and mouth. I performed pranayam for about ½ hour in the lap of nature. At 8.45 am, we were served with breakfast : Biryani and paneer subzi.
At 9.45 am, we started our journey for today to reach the next camp at Mantalai. We were accompanied by guide Mohan Lal (volunteer of Panther Party). We walked through jungle to the Green Park. From there, we trekked down to the Nag mandir. It has its historical importance and tourists visiting Patnitop often visit this temple. We further trekked down, up and down to reach Gauri kund. There is a cave here. As per the local legend, goddess Parvati prayed here for hundreds of years to please Lord Shiva to marry her. Legend has it that she used to take bath in this kund. There is a small temple here. It is managed by J&K Trust, chaired by Dr. Karn singh (MP). I took bath in the kund and then wear new clothes. The water was cold. The Patnitop to Gauri Kund trek was about 8 km.
After taking bath, we resumed our trekking. We reached the road and walked about ½ km on the road. Spotted a snack point. Sat there and took cold drinks. We took a matador (mini bus) from there and got down 3 km away at Shudh Mahadev. The bus charged Rs.4/- per passenger from us. We did darshan of the temple. This temple also has mythological importance and is connected with lord shiva and goddess parvati. It is said that a bad man Shudhant was a devotee of lord shiva but he used to tease parvati. Parvati complained to shiva. Shiva threw his trishool to kill Shudhant who got killed. Shiva realised that he was his devotee. Shiva asked him to ask for any reward. Shudhant asked to connect his name to shiva. This is how this place was started being called as Shudh Mahadev. The trishool of shiva is still lying at this place. We took lunch in a dhaba there near bus stop. I, anshul ate fruits : mango and banana. We all waited for the bus to Mantalai to come.
At 5.30 pm, the bus came. We all boarded the bus for Mantalai. The mini bus driver was kind enough to drive from village Mantalai bus stand (last stop) to our camp about 1 km down drive. It was ½ hour drive from Shudh Mahadev. The Mantalai camp was in the ashram complex of the legendry Swami Dhirendra Brahmchari (DB) who got killed in an air crash here on 9th June 1994. He established world class Yoga Centre here and was establishing world class hospital and health resort before he died in a tragic air crash here. It is spread in 1002 kanal. We met the camp leader subhash chander (teacher, local from Mantalai), cook Arjun Rana (from Jammu) and his Assistant Kulbir. Also met Vijay here who was the camp leader at Sanasar. We were given a hall (carpeting done) which was supposed to be Yoga hall but could not take shape due to untimely death of DB. We were served with tea and pakoras. Mantalai is at a height of 1450 meter above sea level. Lord Shiva was married to Goddess Parvati at this place.
At 7 pm, the camp leader and others took us for a round of the entire complex. We walked through the complex. The building in which we dtayed in hall on ground floor is a 4 storeyed building plus basement. It had a reception area. There was a lawn and even a swimming pool in the complex. There was big apple orchid. We also saw decaying and rusting cars, jeeps, trucks, road roller, JCB. There was another 6 storey structure standing there. It contained the wreckage of the aeroplane in which DB died 17 years back. Another building was meant for housing the animals : cows, buffalos, horses. Another building for their feed. One building housed transformer, DG sets. One building was DB’s residence. At the end of the complex, we came to a point from where we could see the entire valley. Very beautiful picturesque view from there. There was good landscape all around. The name of DB’s organization was Aparna : Aparna Air Ltd., Aparna Centre for scientific Yoga. This place was called Aparna Ashram. Aparna is another name of goddess Parvati. We were told that DB was one man show. His org was not professionally managed. Nobody took over the ashram after him. It is lying almost closed. The prime property is getting wasted. It was very sad. Forest Deptt, PDA, Revenue Deptt and tourism deptt are locked in litigation to acquire this property. Nobody does anything to improve this place thinking it may go to the other. This complex is also used as a throughfare by the locals for going from one place to another. Two J&K police personnel are posted at the main entry gate of the Ashram.
At 8.30 pm. We were served with the dinner. Thereafter, we played cards and went to sleep at 11.45 pm.
3rd June 2011 Friday : Mantalai to Udhampur
I woke up at 6.30 am. The 7 kids and their teacher Vishwanand were getting ready to catch 7.30 bus to Udhampur. They took breakfast and at 7.15 am, they left to board the bus by walking about 1 km to the bus stand.
We got ready leisurely as the trek was practically over. The volunteer Mr.Vijay Kumar showed as the hall on 1st floor. It houses the rare photographs of Swami Dhirendra Bharamchari (DB) with his deciples and pupils doing asanas in this ashram several years back. It also contained old articles of DB. Even the log book of the Plane M-5 9in which he died) and its electronic parts / instruments were there in this hall. It was a very good experience. We were instantly transported into the old era when this place must be bubbling with energy. This is worthy of being converted into a museum. The photos showed that once this ashram was lively and hundreds of sadhaks and sadhikas used to throng this place, live here and do yoga.
At 10.10, ater getting freshen up, we started our journey from the Mantalai camp. We walked and climbed on a small hillock to reach the Air runway track which was used by DB for landing and taking off of his planes. From there, we walked for 10 min to reach the holy Talab (Talai, in local language). In took dip in this holy water source. As per locals, Shiv Puran says that unless you take dip in this talab, your 4 dham yatra is not successful. I did darshan in the adjoining temple. We all relaxed under the tin shed sitting on beautiful benches. Mantalai is also managed by PDA.
At 11.30 am, we reached Mantalai bus stand. The beauty of this place is that from here one can see the bus coming which is actually 4-5 km away. You can even hearn the horn when the vehicle is actually 4-5 km away. This is because it’s a zigzag route in the valley. We can even see Shudh Mahadev temple from here. We waited in a small shop for the bus as it was hot and sunny outside.
At 12.30 am, the bus came. The bus are very scarce here. The bus was proceeding to Udhampur. It took its route via Shudh Mahadev (bus waited here for 20 min) and Cheneni (a bustling town here). The bus charged Rs.35/- per person from Mantalai to Udhampur.
At 3.30 pm, we reached Udhampur and got down at ARTO near our base camp. Relaxed in the base camp. Met Shri KK Gandotra, Balwan singh (Secy, YHAI, J&K), Vishal sharma. Also met 2 participants of the new group leaving tomorrow : Mr. Naphade (from Nasik) and Ms. Maanavi chauhan (from Mathura). Sat with them and enjoyed tea and pakoras.
We also called Vishwnand (who lives nearby) and at 6 pm he, me, anshul, Shubendu and Sudhir Bagade went to see the movie “READY” (starring Salman khan) released today, at Raj Theatre (Kamal rested at the base camp). We enjoyed the movie. After the movie, we walked through the market and took dinner in a good dhaba. I get shave in a saloon in the market. We walked our way to the base camp and reached at the camp at about 10.15 pm. At 11.15 pm, we went to sleep. We used the matterresses for sleeping in the hall.
4th June 2011 Saturday
We woke up at 6 am. At 7.30 am, Sudhir Bagade boarded bus for Udhampur because he has his train for Mumbai from Jammu at about 11.30 am. We accompanied him to the bus stand and see him off. I took bath and got ready. Took tea and biscuits. Shhubendu’s flight was on Tuesday 7th Junr from Delhi to Bangalore and he still had 3 days left. I suggested to him to go with the new group to Pancheri and Sankri Devta as he could not enjoy this route earlier due to darkness.
At 9.45 am, the new group (Group No.23) led by Maanavi and Naphade with 7-8 school children boarded bus for Pancheri from road outside Base camp. I, Anshul and shibendu also boarded same bus. Udhampur to Pancheri is about 37 km distance. After ½ hour, I and anshul got down on the way at Krimchi village to see the PAndava temples. One should not get down at Krimchi village bus stand. Rather, one should get down further after about 1 km from the village after crossing the forest deptt check post near a ASI board showing arrow towards Pandava temples. These temples are about 1 km on right hand side off the road. We walked to the said temples. This is a protected monument under the control of Archelogical Survey of India (www.asi.nic.in). According to legendry accounts, Raja Kichak of Mahabharta period was the creator of the town Krimchi and the kingdom and the pandavas while in exile remained there for a long period. There was no other tourist there other than we two. It was hot and sunny out there.
We walked back to the road. At about 12.15 pm, we caught a matador (mini bus) from there and got down at Udhampur near our base camp. We walked to the Singh Restaurant on the main road itself. I, anshul took breakfast/lunch and tea. It was a AC restaurant. We heaved a sigh of relief as it was very hot outside. We rested there till 2 pm. Then we walked to the bus stand to go to the ISKCON temple but could not locate it. Already feeling the brunt of the sun heat, we decided to return to the camp. Accordingly, we reached back the camp at 2.45 pm. We rested there. We took our Trek Certificates from Mr. Vikas sharma. A new grouo of school children was already there to go on trek tomorrow.
At 5.20 pm, I checked status of our train tickets. 2 out of 3 seats were confirmed thanks to my friend in the ministry. This was great news and a great relief. We hired an autorickshaw from there and reached Udhampur Railway station at 6 pm. Our berths were no.25 and 28 in Coach B1.
At 7.05 pm, the train started.
At 6.05 am, the next morning i.e. on 5th June 2011 Sunday, our train finished its journey at New Delhi Railway station. From there, we hired an auto and reached our homes at 7 am.
…. And in this manner another trek came to an end.
The author has done several treks in the past including the following :
1.Sar Pass (1991 & 1998) (YHAI)
2. Dalhousie (YHAI)
3. Nainital (YHAI)
4. Pindari Glacier (2001) (self, with CEC)
5. Goa trek (Dec 2004) (YHAI)
6. Chandrashila (June 2006) (Self)
7. Leh Ladhakh (November 2006) (self)
8. Jaisalmer trek, Rajasthan (November 2007) (YHAI)
9. Munnar trek, Kerala (January 2008) (YHAI)
10. Kedarkanth trek (Valley of Flowers) (June 2008) (YHAI)
11. Sandakphu trek (Darjeeling) (November 2009) (YHAI)
The author can be reached at :
Sunil Goel
38/7 East Punjabi Bagh, New Delhi – 110026 India
Email : sunilgoel@rediffmail.com cell : 09810215488
