I had been planning to break away
for a few days from the polluted environment of Delhi. So, I browsed about few
places on the internet and ultimately zeroed down upon Meghalaya in the North
East part of India where the Air Quality Index (AQI) of Shillong (Meghalaya’s
capital) was being shown by the AirVisual
mobile App around 60-70 as compared to about 300 in Delhi !
I discussed with my fiend Amit
Burman and he was ready, as ever, to take this adventure cum excursion trip.
So, we booked our air tickets and finalised a driver who was to pick us from
Gauhati Airport and drop us back there after taking us to different places in
Meghalaya wherever we wanted to, as our programme was flexible. His name was Sameer (9101438016) . He was referred
to me by a friend Geeta who had done Meghalaya trip solo recently in October
2018 with him. (This about 24 year boy turned out to be very helpful and even
booked accommodation for us in Cherrapunji and Dawki on our behalf). ..................Day 1: Saturday : 8.12.2018 : Delhi to Gauhati to Dawki to Darrang
At 5.45 am in the morning, I started from Home by Uber cab and reached Indira Gandhi International Airport terminal T1 at about 6.15 am. Amit reached a little later while I was at the Boarding pass counter.
At 8.15 am, our Indigo flight took off. Aboard, we savoured Rava upma.
At 10.15 am, our flight landed at Gauhati airport. We came out from the airport at about 10.50 am where we met driver Sameer waiting for us.
At 11 am, ........
we started from the airport in his Maruti Alto car. I found that most cars here are small sized, and most of the cars are of Maruti Suzuki company ! I was carrying a small suitcase and Amit was carrying a rucksack and after some effort, we managed to fit the same in the small boot of this small car.
After about 20 minutes journey, we halted at a place after crossing railway line, where we could see river and few boats and a small island patch in the midst of the river, with train passing by the side. This view fascinated me, prompting us to get down. This place was called Deepor Beel Wildlife Sanctuary, Guwahati. We clicked few photographs here. We spent about 15-20 minutes here. This was a good start for our trip !
At 12.15 am, we crossed a flyover, half of which, as told by Sameer, is in Assam and half in Meghalaya. As we crossed this flyover, we entered Meghalaya. Here, Sameer got filled petrol in his car and also paid the toll as Toll road started.
At about 1.00 pm, we halted (for 10 min) after seeing many fruits and vegetables shacks by the roadside. I was surprised to find that a Pineapple here was being sold for just Rs. 40/- ! The pineapple is grown in this region in plenty, so many roadside stalls shops were selling these. It was so sweet, juicy and tasty ! We bought pineapples and a bunch of bananas as a reserve stock (as I had apprehension that I may not get good vegetarian food in this trip in this region of the country known for non-vegetarian food as I am totally vegetarian).
As we moved ahead uphill on the serpentine road, the air started becoming cooler. The condition of the road was good. The landscape was changing dramatically, the habitation becoming scarce and trees and hillocks becoming more visible all around.
At 2 pm, we reached Umiam Lake. Umiam Lake (commonly known as Barapani Lake) is a reservoir which was created by constructing a dam over Umiam river by the Assam State Electricity Board in the early 1960s. The lake serves as a major tourist attraction for the state of Meghalaya. It is also a popular destination for water sport and adventure facilities. Tourists visit this spot for kayaking, water cycling, scooting, and boating. We spent about 15 minutes here at the designated view point of Umaim Lake. There were many tourists, and tourist cabs, enjoying the view around the lake and taking the pics.
At 2.35 pm, we reached Shillong, the capital of the State of Meghalaya. But we did not halt here and bypassed the city to head straight to Dawki as it gets dark here quite early and we wanted to reach Dawki before it became dark.
On the way, at about 3.10 pm, we spotted a small roadside restaurant called ‘Restaurant Highway Shacks Dhaba’ in Upper Shillong. It was situated amidst hillocks on the highway. There was no other constructed property nearby. We took lunch here. There were few (5) small huts here made of bamboo cane with round seating arrangement inside where one could take meals. Though there was sunshine, but it was cool and windy, so we took lunch inside the hut. The Pindi chana subzi was excellent, it was spicy like what we usually savour in Delhi. The dal was just average. The Tawa chapati was very big in size and light. They even gave tomato, onion, green chilly, lemon, in the salad. The fried papad was very big in size. The rates were quite reasonable. For the entire meal, we were charged just Rs.270/- . After the meal, at my request, they even gave warm water to drink. The washroom was clean and there was separate hand wash facility. I charged the mobile here while we ate food. Overall, it was a nice place to sit, relax and have meal properly.
It became cold and windy as sun was getting down. I wore the jacket and draped the muffler, to beat the cold.
At 3.55 pm, we started from the dhaba.
At 4.13 pm, we reached a diversion point, where one way goes to Dawki (62 km) (and the other goes to Cherrrapunji (28 km) ?).
We took the way to Dawki. At about 4.50 pm, it became all dark. By about 6.20 pm, the road became quite narrow, due to which our car’s speed almost died down. The problem was compounded by the tempos and trucks returning from Bangladesh after unloading lime stone there. These trucks were causing traffic jam. We could see lights of the houses of Bangladesh nearby. We had almost reached Dawki. A group of 12-14 young bikers on 6-7 bikes in line were cris-crossing us for last one hour.
Dawki is a small border town, in West Jaintia Hills district, along India-Bangladesh Border in Meghalaya. It is a hot spot for trade between the two nations. Dawki Integrated Check Post or Dawki border crossing is on Dawki-Tamabil and is one of the few road border crossings between India and Bangladesh in West Jaintia Hills district in the state of Meghalaya, India. The corresponding post in Bangladesh is called Tamabil post. Dawki ICP foundation stone was laid in January 2017. It is used mainly for coal transportation to Bangladesh. Some 500 trucks cross the border every day in peak season.
At 6.40 pm, we crossed Dawki Bridge, which is a suspension bridge over the Umngot River (constructed in 1932 by the British). The Umngot river is popularly referred to as Dawki river. After crossing this bridge, we took a break at Dawki bazar. Our mobile was catching signals of Bangladesh here and time was showing as 30 minutes ahead (Delhi time was 6.10 pm i.e. 30 min behind). A local boy named Friday (7085616963) came there from the Camp (where we were to stay today in hiking tents). For the dinner, we bought from this bazar the vegetables (cauliflower, peas, tomato, onion, green chilli), rice, eggs, bread, two water bottles (2 lit each), chips, Fish, mustard oil, plates, glass.
At 7.05 pm, we started in our car, with Friday, from Dawki Bazar for Darrang village (which was about 15 min drive from Dawki Bazar) for our campsite. On the way, hundreds of trucks were lined up on the road side. We are told these will ply in the morning to unload the limestone and coal in Bangladesh for stone crushers there.
At 7.25 pm, we reached Darrang village. There is an office of ‘Darrang Tourism Promotion and Development Society’ here. We parked car there at the designated spot. The staff of the Campsite carried our luggage (some staff including Sameer, Friday went to arrange drinks). It was all dark. In the torchlight of our mobiles, we walked down the stony path and steps and rocks to the Umngot river and boarded the small narrow boat. After a 5 minute ride, we reached the other shore and got down. A 2-minute upward walk from here took us to our Campsite (8 pm). It was a camping site where few hiking tents were pitched and a big thatched cum plastic sheet roof on bamboos was there to sit, relax and enjoy under it.
We made egg bhurji. Amit, Sameer and Friday cooked fish for them. It was such a clear sky full of stars. It was quite windy. The camp owner’s partner was a young boy named Batista (8837072502), who lives in nearby Darrang Village. He was also there with some of his friends. They were playing music, taking drinks, dancing and enjoying. Batista told that he has set up this camp. I managed with eating omelette and raw cauliflower and peas and some bhujia and biscuits. Me and Amit sat inside one of the hiking tent pitched there, allotted to us. There was mattress and bed sheet spread on the floor in the synthetic tent and 2 blankets were provided. I was feeling cold and so slipped into the blanket. Amit, as usual, was not feeling cold and roamed outside the tent in the open in shorts. A little away, the tent owners and their friends were dancing and singing while eating. Soon, I fell asleep.
Day 2 : Sunday : 9.12.2918 Darrang – Indo Bangladesh Border – Dawki river - Mawlynnong village
At about 5.45 am, I woke up. The gentle sound of river water flowing downstairs was like nature’s music to the ears. I got free from nature’s call (tented toilet made with Indian seat). I could not sleep properly in the night as Amit was snoring. Also I was feeling little cold due to wind in the night. All others were still sleeping.
I walked down to river at about 7.30 am. The whole area including river portion was gradually illuminated by sunlight. At 8 am, I brushed teeth and took bath, in the river. Fortunately, I was carrying my swimming costume. The water felt very cold initially but soon, I started enjoying the bath in the lap of nature in the cold water of the river which was so clear ! I spent about an hour there, enjoying the view around, with occasionally a boat or two flowing in the river. It was so serene.
I then came up. I met Daniel, who is station head of Big FM 98.3 Shillong. He was one of the friends of camp owner who also stayed here overnight in one of the tents. We gossiped with him and Batista. We ate boiled eggs, bhujiya, biscuit, tea. And a slice.
At 11 am, we did boating in the River Umngot. (The boat is popularly called as Snake boat). We were made to wear safety jackets. This is upstream portion of the river. The same river flows downstream to Dawki and ultimately to Bangladesh. It was such a marvellous experience with once-in-a-life-time views. The water was so clear that we could infact clearly see the pebbles and rocks lying deep within the river. Infact, I got the feeling as if world has turned turtle and mountain area is submerged and our boat is gliding on top of it. Infact, at few places, the boat gets hit by the sharp edge of the rocks below. The boats are narrow in size and passengers sit in one line along the length of the boat. At one point, our boatman unloaded us in the forest area where we saw the living root bridge for the first time in our life.
Overall, it was mesmerizing experience. You all must have seen stunning photographs of boats gliding on Umngot river. The camp persons (Friday) charged Rs.300/- per boat per hour.
At 1.20 pm, we started from Darrang village, after saying good bye to Friday and his boss. We gave Rs.2000 to them (for stay 1500/-, boating 300/-, salt and trumeric 100/-, parking 100/-). This Village grows betelnut (supari) which is their main source of income. There were many betelnut trees here. My mobile battery and that of Amit had gone dry. So camp owner charged my mobile in village home for 20 min. It became 41%. We relished the pineapple here which we were carrying with us. It gave instant energy and freshness. Overall, it was a nice experience here. We met person named Friday on a Saturday and bid good bye to him on Sunday !
As we moved in our car, we saw hundreds of trucks still parked on road side in serpentine line. Today was Sunday and perhaps movement is not allowed here on sundays.
At 1.40 pm (Bangladesh time 2.10), we halted for 20 min at India Bangladesh Boarder point nearby and clicked pictures here. Relished Ber achar being sold by a guy from Bangladesh for just 20/- !. It was too tasty and nostalgic !
At 2 pm, we started again. (Shillong is 82 from Dawki).
At 2.08 pm, we waited for traffic to start, at a point at entrance of Dawki, as construction of road was going on a little ahead. We were told traffic will be on hold till 4 pm ! So we parked our car there and had lunch at a roadside dhaba to make good use of the time. I took rice chole. All inmates at the dhaba seemed to be Bangladesis.
Then we walked to the famous boating point in Dawki, which was just 10 min walk from there. It was crowded. Aesthetically, it was not as nice as Darrang. The river water was not that clear, it was somewhat dusty. I found that this place is a porus border with Bangladesh. I was surprised when I just kept on walking amongst crowd when a policeman stopped me saying I have put my foot on Bangladesh soil and asked me to step back ! surprising ! The people were so much intermingled in the crowd that it was not possible to know who is from Bangladesh and who is from India and whether we were standing on Indian soil or Bangladeshi soil !
At 3 pm, we took boat-ride here, as we had no other option but to wait till 4 pm for traffic to open up. They charged Rs.700/- for full boat. (at Darrang they took just Rs.300 !). We wore safety jacket (like in Darrang). Our boat moved upstream towards overhead suspension bridge (over the Umngot river), then crossing it. The nice cool pleasant breeze was blowing while boating. This stretch is at lower altitude than Darrang. The river from Darrang flows to this place. The shape of the boat is unique - thin shaped, 4 or 5 fattas, person has to sit on this in centre so that boats balance is maintained, one person per phatta, boatman sit at extreme end jutting out. There were so many tourists here, enjoying boat-ride in the river. The boats were so colourful.
At 3.30 pm, we got down for 10 min at a point called paradise point beyond which the region of Darrang start. Here, water was coming with force like rapids, from upper region. We noticed that from here if we walk forward on foot on stones marbles / pebbles by the side of the river, we will reach our yesterday’s camping spot in Darrang in about 15 min ! People were taking bath here in the river.
Darrang, however, was much better. But Darrang is not that popular, and not many people visit Darrang due to remoteness. At Darrang, we even drank the water directly from the river while boating, it was so pure and sweet.
At 4 pm, we finished with boating and then walked to our car parked at a point.
At 4.20 pm, we started from there. I took pictures of Umngot river Dawki (where we had just finished boating) from the highway.
Now, we were heading to Mawlynnong village, the cleanest village of Asia.
Sameer took alternative route which he said was shorter. But it turned out that the road on this route was not good. It had broken down at many stretches which slowed down our speed. Strangely, no vehicle was plying on this road. 3-5 villages came on the way. 2 Waterfalls also came on way but were almost dried up (the right season to see Waterfalls in their full glory is Monsoon).
At 5.45 pm, we reached Village Mawly-Nnong, touted to be Asia's cleanest village. It was all dark and village was all quite and we could hardly spot any person. At first glance, it looked as if it was a deserted place. We parked our car at a car parking point (last point till which vehicles are allowed in the village) and then walked to find out accommodation for today's stay. We reached ‘Ha La Tyngkong Home Stay’. We found it ok and decided to stay here. We paid Rs.1000/- to the owner of the Homestay who was a pretty young girl nicknamed ‘La-La’. This was uniqueness of North East India, and specially in Meghalaya, that women of the house call the shots and manage the business while the menfolk assist them ! She charged Rs.1000/- which included Rs.100/- for small adjoining room for our driver. Our room had double bed, bathroom, lights, fan, charging socket. Also solar light bulb in room in case electricity goes off.
There were many Homestays here and accommodation is not at all a problem here.
All villagers had gone to a nearby Church for Sunday Mass. No food was available but we were feeling hungry. After putting out luggage in our room, we walked to a Homestay adjacent to the parking point. The staff there were also leaving for church but fortunately the pretty lady owner allowed us to use her kitchen to use gas and utensils and cook food ourselves !
Amit and Sameer cooked fish (variety called ‘Maas Baten’) which was extracted from Umngot river in the morning at Darrang and bought by us from the boatman for Rs.100/- ! We were carrying salt, turmeric, fish masala, onion, green chilli, tomato, mustard oil with us, saved from yesterday’s camping. All this came in handy to cook the food here. They also took two eggs from the owner and prepared egg bhurji for me. Here, we met a man from Delhi with his girlfriend. Man works in an NGO in Delhi. They were also looking for food. We helped them and cooked dal and rice for them. This homestay owner charged us Rs.200 (including tomato, green chillies, 2 onions). Amit bought locally made 750 ml Rice beer (in loose form) from the old man in said restaurant for Rs.150/-.
At about 9 pm, we walked to our Homestay. Separate small room was provided to the driver Sameer. I and Amit gossiped and meditation while he sipped rice beer.
My mobile was not getting any signal. Amit’s Jio connection got signal at one particular point and he managed to talk to his family in Delhi. The mobile was showing Bangladesh time as local time, and Home time was showing 30 min behind.
I again could not sleep properly due to snoring by Amit.
Mawlynnong/Mawlynnong Village, located in the East Khasi Hills of Meghalaya, also referred as ‘God’s own garden’, has won the acclaim of being the cleanest village in Asia in 2003. The village known for its cleanliness is located around 90 kms from Shillong and is a community based eco-tourism initiative. The community has made collective effort to maintain the ambience of a clean village. The village offers picturesque natural beauty, a trek to the living root bridge at a neighbouring village Riwai. The village also offers a sight of natural balancing rock, a strange natural phenomenon of a boulder balancing on another rock. The village is quite pretty, especially in the monsoons when there is lush greenery all around, with waterfalls paving the way to small streams and abundance of flowering orchids dangling from the trees and hedges add to the beauty of the village. The onus to keep the village clean lies with every person residing in the village. Local cleaning the roads, picking up leaves and throwing garbage in the bin is a very common sight. Bamboo garbage bins adorn every nook and corner of the village highlight the consciousness of cleanliness among the villagers. Cleanliness is an age old tradition and a way of life for all villagers. The village has won accolade for being the cleanest village in Asia in 2003 as well as the Cleanest Village in India in 2005. The village also offers breathtaking view of Bangladesh plains as it is located on the Indo-Bangla border.
Day 3 : Monday 10.12.2018 : Mawlynnong village – Balancing rock – Living Root bridge – Cherrapunji (Sohra) - Wah Kaba Waterfalls – Noh Ka Likai Waterfalls -- Seven Sister Falls -- Mawsmai caves -- IbanKordor Jungle resort
At 6.30 am, I woke up. I went for a walk in the Mawlyn-Nong village for about 30 minutes. If you ask me, it’s a misnomer to call Mawlynnong a village. Its like a closed knit colony. Its appeared to me to be a colony of farm houses which we have in say Sainik farms or DLF Chhatarpur in Delhi. There are undulating streets measuring about 8 ft in width connecting houses surrounded by extensive greenery comprising trees, vegetation, flowers, papaya trees. Cane baskets conical in shape are used as dustbins. Houses are having aluminium slope roofs. Street lights are lighted by solar energy (donated by IDFC as part of CSR). Waste buckets made of cane put up at every nook and corner especially in front of every house to put biodegradable waste like fruit peels, small wrapper etc. (other things travellers are advised to carry away with them and not dispose in village). There is one common tar road, with narrow streets branching out from it every 15-20 mtr. Streets were all cemented. Almost every house has Homestay facilities.
There is a church nearby.
Mawlynnong village falls in East Khasi Hills District of State of Meghalaya.
I returned to our homestay. On request, the owner provided hot water bucket for bathing.
At 9.30 am, after getting ready, we three walked and took a round of the village .
There were small shops being readied on the road side in the village selling souveniers, hand bags, hats, shawls, stawls, wooden wares. There was a small post office nearby at parking spot where we had dinner yesterday. Ration under PDS was being distributed inside post office building. I noticed that cemented construction was going on in some houses/plots, perhaps making more Homestays. We even went inside church premises, which was locked.
Sunday is closed here. So always take care not to land in these places in North East India on Sunday.
I and Amit climbed the bridge and machan / tree hut, both made of bamboo and cane, built by a private person (charging 20/- per head). This bridge start from his property, which goes on to a small hut on trees across the road. It must be about 40-50 ft high. Nice breeze can be experienced here apart from good view of the village around. A church could be seen very nearby. There was an adjoining Ground used by children for playing footbal.
Entire village is so lively, refreshing and soothing. Viilage overall made a good sight.
At 10 am, we started from Mawlynnong village.
We immediately got down at Balancing rock at the starting of the village on the roadside (ticket: Rs.10/- per person). We spent 10 minutes here. It’s a huge boulder resting on a small rock. But for safety reasons, an enclosure has been constructed below the huge rock so that visitors do not go beneath the huge rock.
We then drove to Living root bridge further 3 minutes away in neighbouring Riwai village. One has to get off the road and travel about 650 mtr distance down by car to reach the parking lot. We parked our car there. From the parking lot, it was 5 min easy walk to living root bridge (some persons were coming via some long route made up of steps !). We ate shakargandhi (sweet potato) from stalls along the path (we could not take breakfast today as found no eating outlet opened !).
At 6.15 pm, we reached IbanKordor Jungle resort. Here we met the owner’s daughter Ms. Iban. She is pretty young lady having sons 3 yr and 10 yr. She was managing the reception. She was lively and quite hospitable and humble. Her brother name is Korodor. Their father Mr. M.K.War named this resort as IbanKorodor on their names. She told that they started this resort less than a year ago (March 2018) and that they do not have prior experience in this field. But still they have good reviews on TripAdvisor. This was remarkable. She is here as they celebrated her father (the owner) birthday here yesterday, and she would be leaving tomorrow for her matrimonial home. She allotted us a cottage which was pre-booked. Charges : Rs.1500/- per day. This also included room and food for our driver.
We checked into our room. It was spacious, having geyser in the bathroom, Double bed, cane sofas 2 +2+1 seater, Fan. There are 7-8 cottages here. Me and Amit took Green Apple flavored Vodka (was quite good) and slowly entered into meditational discourse.
At 9 pm, we went to the dining area and took dinner. I had asked them to cook cauliflower, potato and tomato dish in dry mode but they did it with some gravy in chinese dish mode and also made it very spicy. I did not like it, but still ate 1/2 roti (tawa) with it. Took half bowl Mushroom soup as well as tomato soup, then 1 small gulab jamun (ready to eat). As I said earlier, I am very particular about food and did not like the food in this region of India.
At 10.30 p,. we went to our room and went to sleep.
The mobile signal as well as internet was available here.
Day 4 : Tuesday : 11.12.2018 : Double Decker Living Root Bridge - Rainbow Waterfalls
At 5 am, I woke up as Amit’s snoring, becoming more and more loud, did not allow me to sleep properly. I spent time by completing the tour notes in Google Keep app on my mobile.
While Amit was sleeping, from 6-7 am, I walked around the resort. It was nice quiet place. There was a bridge made of cane and bamboos leading to a hut atop a tree and supported by bamboo pillars, within the resort at the edge/boundary separating it from the jungle. I sat there and saw views around and also did pranayam here for 10 minutes. Then I walked towards the village. After 4 min walk from the resort on kachha raasta, the motarable road (though broken) starts. I noticed vegetables being grown near the resort.
I returned back and took bath.
At 7.30 am, I took breakfast : Tea, Butter toast. Then Amit came and took Poori Subzi. We then took haldi milk (hot). We gossiped with the owner Mr. M.K.War (he had birthday yesterday). He is doing business of Limestone. He told that he purchased 20 acre land 5 year ago for total 16 lakh and put up this resort this year. He also told that Lime stone goes to Bangkadesh by 4 modes :
1. By truck
2. By boat
3. by ropeway
4. by conveyer belt (20 km long!) by French company Lafage.
He told that Limestone is available in plenty in Meghalaya. Infact, limestone which goes to Bangladesh from here for say 2000/- per cum is sold further to India in West Bengal and Tripura for say Rs.3000/- per cum ! This is because labour in Bangladesh is cheaper compared to India and transportation cost from Bangladesh to West Bengal is very cheaper compared to transportation cost from Meghalaya to West Bengal. Business acumen, I would say.
The owner Mr. M.K.War was so humble. Despite owning limestone business and despite being owner of this Resort, he was picking luggage of tourists from their cottage to their car when the tourist asked him if he can arrange someone to pick their luggage to the car ! This is one quality very rare elsewhere. We need to learn and imbibe such qualities. They were functioning with least staff.
At 8.55 am, we started from the Jungle Resort.
At 9.15 am, we reached Tyrna village parking point from where we have to walk / trek for about 2 ½ hours to reach Double Decker Living Root Bridge (Parking charge Rs.50/-). At 9.20 am, we started the trek. The initial about one hour walk was all down on cemented steps, which were small in width and walking through them was challenging, apart from tiresome.
At 10.05 am, we took little diversion through a village called Jingmaham and reached a living root bridge called Longsroot bridge (ticket : Rs.60/- per person).
At 10.30 am, we passed by an old narrow rusted steel suspension bridge which was closed due to being in dilapidated condition. We went to the other side of bridge by climbing down and crossing the stream by stepping on to stones and rocks and then climbing up. I noticed many butterflies here.
Two girls and a man from London were also criss crossing us. One traveller from Germany with professional camera was taking pics throughout the route. His name is Martin, aged 68 years, retired professor of Geography in Germany. He was on 3 months trip to Meghalaya, Bangladesh and Myanmar. He told that he liked Qutab Minar in Delhi very much, better than Taj Mahal. He has been a marathon runner and is amazingly physically fit even at 68 years.
At 11.00 am, we crossed another steel suspension bridge (gates at both ends painted in blue and white stripes). The water in the stream beneath was beautifully blue.
At 11.15 am, we reached Vill Nongriat and passed through it an crossed one small root bridge.
11.25 am : Lo and behold ! we are right there at the entrance of world famous Double Decker Living Root Bridge. (ticket : Rs.20/- per person). This is village Nongriat.
Even after walking leisurely and in fun manner, enjoying all scenery, we managed to reach here in 2 hrs ! This was remarkable (as we had expected to cover it in at least 3 hours).
People, mainly youngsters, were sitting and rejoicing here near the stream beneath the Double Decker Bridge. We also took several pics here.
The whole journey to double decker root bridge was down, up, down, up, with first about 30 min being steep decline, and thereafter it was more or less ok walk including forest trail.
Since, we had managed to reach here early and were still feeling the energy left in us to walk more, we decided to walk ahead to Rainbow Falls. We were told that these waterwalls are magnificent and out-of-this-world view and that it would take about an hour from double decker bridge to reach there. We were also told that generally people do not do double decker bridge and Rainbow Falls in a single day (as it is strenuous) and that they stay overnight at some homestay at double decker bridge and then go to Rainbow Falls the next day. However, we decided to complete Rainbow Falls the same day and return back (huuh….it turned out to be a bad decision ….at least for me…as it became too tiring and tested my patience and stamina and stretched me much beyond my body limits).
At 12 pm, we started ahead for Rainbow falls. At 12.15 pm, we crossed steel suspension bridge. At 12.40 pm, the Waterfall was apparently visible but a small chit put by someone on the path was saying that actual site of Rainbow fall is 40 minutes ahead. So, we followed the path but it turned out to be very tough incline and Waterfall was nowhere in sight. We got tired. We sat down and sent Sameer ahead to check if we are on the right path. He called after 25 min on mobile that this is correct path and he has reached the waterfalls and that it is out-of-the-world experience. His words infused energy in us and after 25 minutes rest, we started again. But again, it was a hard trek.
After a strenuous trek from Double Decker root bridge, we finally reached the site of Rainbow waterfalls at about 1.45 pm. It was giant and majestic ! It was so soothing to the eyes. The cool breeze from the waterfall was embracing our skin. A rainbow was being created by the mist of falling waterfall. We savoured Litchi juice, biscuits, chips, omelette at the only shack here. We found the UK girl in lingerie soaking in the sun lying on a huge rock while others were swimming in the lagoon created by falling waterfall. It was a scene directly out of some Hollywood movie.
Day 5 : Wednesday : 12.12.2018 : Ibnkordor Resort Cherrapunji – Shillong (Elephant Falls, Air Force museum, Shillong Peak) - Gauhati
At 5.30 am, I woke up. We then got ready and packed our bags.
At about 6.50 am, I took a walk on the wooden suspension bridge made of cane and bamboo and got down into the well maintained jungle within the complex and walked on the jungle trail having leaves from trees fallen over it. There were several sheds made of bamboo and thatch having natural wooden benches to sit, relax, enjoy and soak in the surroundings. The trail led to a spot/ view point where one can sit and marvel at the nature and see Bangladesh terrain which is very close by aerially. There was also a play ground area having swings. All these are within the boundary of the resort.
This man MK War is really superb. These all are his own ideas, he told.
You must take this trail to soak in nature and if you want to have feel of a mini trek.
At 7.30 am, we took breakfast. We paid Rs. 4600/- to Hotel owner for 2 nights stay and food and bid good bye to him and his staff.
At 8 am, we started from the Resort for Shillong and Gauhati, to eventually catch our evening flight from Gauhati.
At 8.40 am, we reached point of diversion to Mawylnnong and other path to Mawsmai caves. We took road going to Mawlynnong. At 8.47 am, we crossed the Wine shop. We passed by various villages including Mawkdok village (Mawkdok is midway between Sohra and Shillong?). There was a view point here : Dancing clouds. (there is zipline activity also here?)
At 9.30 am, we reached another diversion point : one road goes to Dawki and other to Shillong and Gauhati. We took road to Shillong. At 9.44 am, we passed Highway Shacks Dhaba (13 km from Shillong, where we had taken our brunch on Day 1).
At 9.50 am, we reached a tourist spot called Elephant Falls (Ticket : Rs.20/- per person). It comprise of 3 waterfalls, the 3rd being the biggest. Prime Minister Narender Modi’s photo against backdrop of 3rd waterfall was put up at the entrance.
Elephant Falls are amongst the most popular falls in the North-East, situated next to Shillong. The Britishers named this fall so owing to the presence of an elephant-shaped rock on one side of the fall. However, the stone disintegrated and was washed away due to an earthquake in 1897. The breathtaking Elephant falls were referred to as 'Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew' by the local Khasi people, which means 'The Three Step Waterfalls', as these falls consist of three mesmerising falls in succession. Steep steps lead down to the waterfall. The first fall is broad and hidden between trees. The second fall is tamed and almost negligible in winter, when the water level recedes. The third and the most visible waterfall is the tallest with clear water flowing like a sheet of milk on the dark rocks in the backdrop. Out of the three, the third waterfall tends to strike the visitors as the most impressive. However, the steep steps can be too much trouble for kids and elderly folks.
At 10.30 am, we started from Elephant Falls. We visited the Air Force museum nearby (Ticket : Rs.20/- per person). The Air Force Museum in Shillong is a storehouse of the country's defense forces, majorly the Indian Air Force, the brave flying warriors and the defence history. The museum is located in the Upper Shillong area. It houses pictures of Indo-China war as well as Indo-Pakistan war. The museum displays the uniforms worn by the air force pilots, missiles, rockets, miniature models of air crafts and various other exhibits. There is a souvenir shop inside the complex to buy gifts.
At 11.10 am, we started from Air Force Museum. There was a Tea Farm of the Government nearby but we were not interested to explore it, due to paucity of time.
At 11.26 am, we reached Air Force Station, Laitkor Peak. It is entry point for Shillong Peak. From this gate, one has to go by car about 1.5 km to reach Shillong peak. Sadly, Shillong peak is closed on Wednesday (as informed by the sepoy at the entrance gate) and today happened to be Wednesday. So, we missed the chance to enjoy view of the town from Shillong Peak. At an height of 6449 ft above sea level, Shillong Peak is the highest point of Shillong. It offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire city, the Himalayas, its waterfalls as well as of the Bangladesh plains. A telescope is available for tourists to get a bird's eye view. Trekking up to this semi-circular Shillong Peak is highly recommended for the best views but it is often bounded by heavy fog. It is said that Shillong gets its name from the Shillong Peak itself. Regional tales tell that the patron deity 'Leishyllong' resides in the hills and protects the city from all evils. The U Shulong site at the top of the peak is sacred and every spring, a ritual is organised there. The Shillong Peak is situated at the air force base and features a radar station of the Indian Air Force. Due to security reasons, heavy checking is done at the gates, and tourists are asked to deposit their cameras.
At 11.29 am, we started for Nadeem’s place near Gauhati. We drove on Shillong-Gauhati road, and passed Mawlai, Nongkwar in shilling, etc. At 12.22 pm, we passed by Umiam Lake view point (which we enjoyed on Day 1). At 1.30 pm, we passed through Distt Nongpho. At 1.50 pm, we crossed the Toll gates (Toll : Rs.65/-)
At 2.45 pm, we reached Narangi Military Station, Panjabari Road, near Khanapara, Gauhati. Nadeem is working here in ECHS. We met him there and we then went with him to Golf club within the cantonment. We took beer add snacks there, followed by lunch, finishing with the tasty moong dal halwa. We sat in the open on 1st floor. It was such a beautiful view all around, with Golf Course (called The Golf Ball) in the background.
At 4.45 pm, we bide good bye to Nadeem and started from the cantonment.
At 5.50 pm, we reached Gauhati Airport. We checked in and waited for boarding after clearing security check. In the meantime, we charged our mobile. At 7.50 pm, we entered the aircraft. At 8.20 pm, our flight took off.
At 10.55 pm, our flight touched down at Delhi airport. Saying good bye to Amit, I reached home at 11.45 pm.
Another beautiful exploration trip, thus, came to an end.
Notes :
1. Anyone wanting to travel in Assam or Meghalaya or even in Arunachal Pradesh, I strongly recommend to avail services of Sameer. He is helpful and economical too. He had a Maruti Alto and also has Swift Dezire car.
2. Meghalaya cars have ML registration number plates.
3. Girls here (in Meghalaya) generally run all business and men take care of family.
4. Every 2nd and 3rd car in Meghalaya is Maruti : Alto, Maruti 800, swift, Dezire. Ertiga, Ignis, Baleno can also be seen. Alto is no.1 vehicle here. Its a land of small cars.
After about 20 minutes journey, we halted at a place after crossing railway line, where we could see river and few boats and a small island patch in the midst of the river, with train passing by the side. This view fascinated me, prompting us to get down. This place was called Deepor Beel Wildlife Sanctuary, Guwahati. We clicked few photographs here. We spent about 15-20 minutes here. This was a good start for our trip !
At 12.15 am, we crossed a flyover, half of which, as told by Sameer, is in Assam and half in Meghalaya. As we crossed this flyover, we entered Meghalaya. Here, Sameer got filled petrol in his car and also paid the toll as Toll road started.
At about 1.00 pm, we halted (for 10 min) after seeing many fruits and vegetables shacks by the roadside. I was surprised to find that a Pineapple here was being sold for just Rs. 40/- ! The pineapple is grown in this region in plenty, so many roadside stalls shops were selling these. It was so sweet, juicy and tasty ! We bought pineapples and a bunch of bananas as a reserve stock (as I had apprehension that I may not get good vegetarian food in this trip in this region of the country known for non-vegetarian food as I am totally vegetarian).
As we moved ahead uphill on the serpentine road, the air started becoming cooler. The condition of the road was good. The landscape was changing dramatically, the habitation becoming scarce and trees and hillocks becoming more visible all around.
At 2.35 pm, we reached Shillong, the capital of the State of Meghalaya. But we did not halt here and bypassed the city to head straight to Dawki as it gets dark here quite early and we wanted to reach Dawki before it became dark.
On the way, at about 3.10 pm, we spotted a small roadside restaurant called ‘Restaurant Highway Shacks Dhaba’ in Upper Shillong. It was situated amidst hillocks on the highway. There was no other constructed property nearby. We took lunch here. There were few (5) small huts here made of bamboo cane with round seating arrangement inside where one could take meals. Though there was sunshine, but it was cool and windy, so we took lunch inside the hut. The Pindi chana subzi was excellent, it was spicy like what we usually savour in Delhi. The dal was just average. The Tawa chapati was very big in size and light. They even gave tomato, onion, green chilly, lemon, in the salad. The fried papad was very big in size. The rates were quite reasonable. For the entire meal, we were charged just Rs.270/- . After the meal, at my request, they even gave warm water to drink. The washroom was clean and there was separate hand wash facility. I charged the mobile here while we ate food. Overall, it was a nice place to sit, relax and have meal properly.
It became cold and windy as sun was getting down. I wore the jacket and draped the muffler, to beat the cold.
At 3.55 pm, we started from the dhaba.
At 4.13 pm, we reached a diversion point, where one way goes to Dawki (62 km) (and the other goes to Cherrrapunji (28 km) ?).
We took the way to Dawki. At about 4.50 pm, it became all dark. By about 6.20 pm, the road became quite narrow, due to which our car’s speed almost died down. The problem was compounded by the tempos and trucks returning from Bangladesh after unloading lime stone there. These trucks were causing traffic jam. We could see lights of the houses of Bangladesh nearby. We had almost reached Dawki. A group of 12-14 young bikers on 6-7 bikes in line were cris-crossing us for last one hour.
At 7.05 pm, we started in our car, with Friday, from Dawki Bazar for Darrang village (which was about 15 min drive from Dawki Bazar) for our campsite. On the way, hundreds of trucks were lined up on the road side. We are told these will ply in the morning to unload the limestone and coal in Bangladesh for stone crushers there.
At 7.25 pm, we reached Darrang village. There is an office of ‘Darrang Tourism Promotion and Development Society’ here. We parked car there at the designated spot. The staff of the Campsite carried our luggage (some staff including Sameer, Friday went to arrange drinks). It was all dark. In the torchlight of our mobiles, we walked down the stony path and steps and rocks to the Umngot river and boarded the small narrow boat. After a 5 minute ride, we reached the other shore and got down. A 2-minute upward walk from here took us to our Campsite (8 pm). It was a camping site where few hiking tents were pitched and a big thatched cum plastic sheet roof on bamboos was there to sit, relax and enjoy under it.
In khasi, ‘wah’ means ‘river’ and so Umngot river is called 'Wah Umngot'.
Day 2 : Sunday : 9.12.2918 Darrang – Indo Bangladesh Border – Dawki river - Mawlynnong village
At about 5.45 am, I woke up. The gentle sound of river water flowing downstairs was like nature’s music to the ears. I got free from nature’s call (tented toilet made with Indian seat). I could not sleep properly in the night as Amit was snoring. Also I was feeling little cold due to wind in the night. All others were still sleeping.
I walked down to river at about 7.30 am. The whole area including river portion was gradually illuminated by sunlight. At 8 am, I brushed teeth and took bath, in the river. Fortunately, I was carrying my swimming costume. The water felt very cold initially but soon, I started enjoying the bath in the lap of nature in the cold water of the river which was so clear ! I spent about an hour there, enjoying the view around, with occasionally a boat or two flowing in the river. It was so serene.
I then came up. I met Daniel, who is station head of Big FM 98.3 Shillong. He was one of the friends of camp owner who also stayed here overnight in one of the tents. We gossiped with him and Batista. We ate boiled eggs, bhujiya, biscuit, tea. And a slice.
At 11 am, we did boating in the River Umngot. (The boat is popularly called as Snake boat). We were made to wear safety jackets. This is upstream portion of the river. The same river flows downstream to Dawki and ultimately to Bangladesh. It was such a marvellous experience with once-in-a-life-time views. The water was so clear that we could infact clearly see the pebbles and rocks lying deep within the river. Infact, I got the feeling as if world has turned turtle and mountain area is submerged and our boat is gliding on top of it. Infact, at few places, the boat gets hit by the sharp edge of the rocks below. The boats are narrow in size and passengers sit in one line along the length of the boat. At one point, our boatman unloaded us in the forest area where we saw the living root bridge for the first time in our life.
Overall, it was mesmerizing experience. You all must have seen stunning photographs of boats gliding on Umngot river. The camp persons (Friday) charged Rs.300/- per boat per hour.
At 1.20 pm, we started from Darrang village, after saying good bye to Friday and his boss. We gave Rs.2000 to them (for stay 1500/-, boating 300/-, salt and trumeric 100/-, parking 100/-). This Village grows betelnut (supari) which is their main source of income. There were many betelnut trees here. My mobile battery and that of Amit had gone dry. So camp owner charged my mobile in village home for 20 min. It became 41%. We relished the pineapple here which we were carrying with us. It gave instant energy and freshness. Overall, it was a nice experience here. We met person named Friday on a Saturday and bid good bye to him on Sunday !
As we moved in our car, we saw hundreds of trucks still parked on road side in serpentine line. Today was Sunday and perhaps movement is not allowed here on sundays.
At 1.40 pm (Bangladesh time 2.10), we halted for 20 min at India Bangladesh Boarder point nearby and clicked pictures here. Relished Ber achar being sold by a guy from Bangladesh for just 20/- !. It was too tasty and nostalgic !
At 2 pm, we started again. (Shillong is 82 from Dawki).
At 2.08 pm, we waited for traffic to start, at a point at entrance of Dawki, as construction of road was going on a little ahead. We were told traffic will be on hold till 4 pm ! So we parked our car there and had lunch at a roadside dhaba to make good use of the time. I took rice chole. All inmates at the dhaba seemed to be Bangladesis.
Then we walked to the famous boating point in Dawki, which was just 10 min walk from there. It was crowded. Aesthetically, it was not as nice as Darrang. The river water was not that clear, it was somewhat dusty. I found that this place is a porus border with Bangladesh. I was surprised when I just kept on walking amongst crowd when a policeman stopped me saying I have put my foot on Bangladesh soil and asked me to step back ! surprising ! The people were so much intermingled in the crowd that it was not possible to know who is from Bangladesh and who is from India and whether we were standing on Indian soil or Bangladeshi soil !
At 3.30 pm, we got down for 10 min at a point called paradise point beyond which the region of Darrang start. Here, water was coming with force like rapids, from upper region. We noticed that from here if we walk forward on foot on stones marbles / pebbles by the side of the river, we will reach our yesterday’s camping spot in Darrang in about 15 min ! People were taking bath here in the river.
Darrang, however, was much better. But Darrang is not that popular, and not many people visit Darrang due to remoteness. At Darrang, we even drank the water directly from the river while boating, it was so pure and sweet.
At 4 pm, we finished with boating and then walked to our car parked at a point.
At 4.20 pm, we started from there. I took pictures of Umngot river Dawki (where we had just finished boating) from the highway.
Now, we were heading to Mawlynnong village, the cleanest village of Asia.
Sameer took alternative route which he said was shorter. But it turned out that the road on this route was not good. It had broken down at many stretches which slowed down our speed. Strangely, no vehicle was plying on this road. 3-5 villages came on the way. 2 Waterfalls also came on way but were almost dried up (the right season to see Waterfalls in their full glory is Monsoon).
At 5.45 pm, we reached Village Mawly-Nnong, touted to be Asia's cleanest village. It was all dark and village was all quite and we could hardly spot any person. At first glance, it looked as if it was a deserted place. We parked our car at a car parking point (last point till which vehicles are allowed in the village) and then walked to find out accommodation for today's stay. We reached ‘Ha La Tyngkong Home Stay’. We found it ok and decided to stay here. We paid Rs.1000/- to the owner of the Homestay who was a pretty young girl nicknamed ‘La-La’. This was uniqueness of North East India, and specially in Meghalaya, that women of the house call the shots and manage the business while the menfolk assist them ! She charged Rs.1000/- which included Rs.100/- for small adjoining room for our driver. Our room had double bed, bathroom, lights, fan, charging socket. Also solar light bulb in room in case electricity goes off.
All villagers had gone to a nearby Church for Sunday Mass. No food was available but we were feeling hungry. After putting out luggage in our room, we walked to a Homestay adjacent to the parking point. The staff there were also leaving for church but fortunately the pretty lady owner allowed us to use her kitchen to use gas and utensils and cook food ourselves !
Amit and Sameer cooked fish (variety called ‘Maas Baten’) which was extracted from Umngot river in the morning at Darrang and bought by us from the boatman for Rs.100/- ! We were carrying salt, turmeric, fish masala, onion, green chilli, tomato, mustard oil with us, saved from yesterday’s camping. All this came in handy to cook the food here. They also took two eggs from the owner and prepared egg bhurji for me. Here, we met a man from Delhi with his girlfriend. Man works in an NGO in Delhi. They were also looking for food. We helped them and cooked dal and rice for them. This homestay owner charged us Rs.200 (including tomato, green chillies, 2 onions). Amit bought locally made 750 ml Rice beer (in loose form) from the old man in said restaurant for Rs.150/-.
At about 9 pm, we walked to our Homestay. Separate small room was provided to the driver Sameer. I and Amit gossiped and meditation while he sipped rice beer.
My mobile was not getting any signal. Amit’s Jio connection got signal at one particular point and he managed to talk to his family in Delhi. The mobile was showing Bangladesh time as local time, and Home time was showing 30 min behind.
I again could not sleep properly due to snoring by Amit.
Mawlynnong/Mawlynnong Village, located in the East Khasi Hills of Meghalaya, also referred as ‘God’s own garden’, has won the acclaim of being the cleanest village in Asia in 2003. The village known for its cleanliness is located around 90 kms from Shillong and is a community based eco-tourism initiative. The community has made collective effort to maintain the ambience of a clean village. The village offers picturesque natural beauty, a trek to the living root bridge at a neighbouring village Riwai. The village also offers a sight of natural balancing rock, a strange natural phenomenon of a boulder balancing on another rock. The village is quite pretty, especially in the monsoons when there is lush greenery all around, with waterfalls paving the way to small streams and abundance of flowering orchids dangling from the trees and hedges add to the beauty of the village. The onus to keep the village clean lies with every person residing in the village. Local cleaning the roads, picking up leaves and throwing garbage in the bin is a very common sight. Bamboo garbage bins adorn every nook and corner of the village highlight the consciousness of cleanliness among the villagers. Cleanliness is an age old tradition and a way of life for all villagers. The village has won accolade for being the cleanest village in Asia in 2003 as well as the Cleanest Village in India in 2005. The village also offers breathtaking view of Bangladesh plains as it is located on the Indo-Bangla border.
Day 3 : Monday 10.12.2018 : Mawlynnong village – Balancing rock – Living Root bridge – Cherrapunji (Sohra) - Wah Kaba Waterfalls – Noh Ka Likai Waterfalls -- Seven Sister Falls -- Mawsmai caves -- IbanKordor Jungle resort
At 6.30 am, I woke up. I went for a walk in the Mawlyn-Nong village for about 30 minutes. If you ask me, it’s a misnomer to call Mawlynnong a village. Its like a closed knit colony. Its appeared to me to be a colony of farm houses which we have in say Sainik farms or DLF Chhatarpur in Delhi. There are undulating streets measuring about 8 ft in width connecting houses surrounded by extensive greenery comprising trees, vegetation, flowers, papaya trees. Cane baskets conical in shape are used as dustbins. Houses are having aluminium slope roofs. Street lights are lighted by solar energy (donated by IDFC as part of CSR). Waste buckets made of cane put up at every nook and corner especially in front of every house to put biodegradable waste like fruit peels, small wrapper etc. (other things travellers are advised to carry away with them and not dispose in village). There is one common tar road, with narrow streets branching out from it every 15-20 mtr. Streets were all cemented. Almost every house has Homestay facilities.
There is a church nearby.
Mawlynnong village falls in East Khasi Hills District of State of Meghalaya.
I returned to our homestay. On request, the owner provided hot water bucket for bathing.
At 9.30 am, after getting ready, we three walked and took a round of the village .
There were small shops being readied on the road side in the village selling souveniers, hand bags, hats, shawls, stawls, wooden wares. There was a small post office nearby at parking spot where we had dinner yesterday. Ration under PDS was being distributed inside post office building. I noticed that cemented construction was going on in some houses/plots, perhaps making more Homestays. We even went inside church premises, which was locked.
Sunday is closed here. So always take care not to land in these places in North East India on Sunday.
I and Amit climbed the bridge and machan / tree hut, both made of bamboo and cane, built by a private person (charging 20/- per head). This bridge start from his property, which goes on to a small hut on trees across the road. It must be about 40-50 ft high. Nice breeze can be experienced here apart from good view of the village around. A church could be seen very nearby. There was an adjoining Ground used by children for playing footbal.
Entire village is so lively, refreshing and soothing. Viilage overall made a good sight.
At 10 am, we started from Mawlynnong village.
We immediately got down at Balancing rock at the starting of the village on the roadside (ticket: Rs.10/- per person). We spent 10 minutes here. It’s a huge boulder resting on a small rock. But for safety reasons, an enclosure has been constructed below the huge rock so that visitors do not go beneath the huge rock.
Its a wider but a weak bridge.
The green algae in the water, accumulated after flowing down the rocks, giving good visual effect in bright sun. Many families rejoicing here.
At 11.10 am, we started in car after finishing seeing living root bridge.
We did not take breakfast today as surprisingly no outlet in the village had opened in the morning. Most of them were on picnic, it seems.
At 11.45 am, we stopped at ‘Home Grown’ Restaurant on the way. We took Brunch here : Fried rice, 2 eggs, 3 tea. Tea was good. We charged our mobile here. The eating room was a wooden hut raised on platform above marshy water. The view generated by the surroundings with hut in the foreground was so colorful.
At 12.30 pm, we started again.
At 1.00 pm, we passed by an area where canyon / valley was on our left side. Air became cooler. It made a good view and feeling : valley on one side, hills on other side, villages on the way, music blowing from our car cruising sometime at 40-50 kmph when on mountains and 60-70 kmph when in plains.
At 1.30 pm, we reached a point / diversion ( Umtynagar) from where one way go to Shillong 22 km and other to Cherrapunji 28 km. We took way/road to Cherrapunji, which was our itenerary for today and tomorrow.
At 1.45 pm, we passed a point where Zip Lining activity was going on. But we were short of time and it becomes dark here so early, so we had to give it a skip.
At 2.10 pm, we stopped by a spot for viewing Wah Kaba Waterfalls (ticket : Rs. 10/- per person). This spot is called Wah Kaba – Latara Falls viewpoint. We took pics here.
At 2.30 pm, we started again.
At 2.35 pm, a sign board of ‘Sai Mika’ came. From here, there is a narrow road on right hand side going to Dain Thien waterfalls 5-6 km away. But our driver said it is not so good and also dried up during this time. So we dropped the plan to see it and drove ahead.
At 2.40 pm, we reached a diversion on the highway on right hand side for Noh Ka Likai waterfalls 5 km away. We took the said diversion. But this Road was not so good. It was narrow. We were infact now in the region of Cherrapunji (called “Sohra” locally).
At 2.50 pm, we reached Noh Ka Likai waterfalls viewpoint. (Ticket : Rs.20/- per head, parking Rs.40/-). What a magnificent waterfall it was ! mesmerizing. So many tourists, Tourist buses and school children groups were here. Many shops and stalls were selling local wares and souvenirs. There were 3-4 points to view WaterFalls here.
At 3.15 pm, we started again. We returned to the diversion point (from where the route to Noh Ka Likai village and waterfalls started) and took the highway.
At 3.45 pm, we reached another diversion point, one going towards Mawsmai caves, Seven Sister Falls and Eco Village (10 min) and other towards Double root bridge area which was abt 1 hr away. We took the road to Mawsmai caves. I spotted a Water tanki in the shape of a huge football on the way !
At 3.50 pm, we reached Seven Sister Falls viewpoint. But we found it all dried up, but we still took picture for remembrance. There were 2-3 hotels here to stay (parking Rs.20/-).
We started after 10 minutes.
At 4.05 pm, we reached Mawsmai caves tourist point after 5 min drive. (Ticket : Rs.20/- per person, parking Rs.20/-). These are much spacious and wider than Mizoram caves. Even old people were doing it with families. Its length was about 100 mtr ? We entered the caves and came out from the other end. There were lights installed in the caves at few points.
We took tea and biscuits in an outlet here. Sameer took maggi also. I charged my mobile here.
At 4.55 pm, we started from Mawsmai caves. Eco park is also nearby but it was getting darker, so we dropped the idea to see it.
We reached same diversion point where one way go to famous Double root bridge village. From this diversion point, we diverted back to same route/direction from where we came in afternoon from Mawlynnong, to go to Sunshine Wine shop (Govt authorised) 3 km away at Sohra bazar (Cherrapunji bazar). From said shop, we bought Magic Moments Vodka (Green apple flavored) 750 ml for 470/- (in Delhi it is 500/-), Tuborg bear for Sameer for 90x2 =180.
After buying drinks, we reached same diversion point at 5.25 pm and took way/road to Double decker root bridge area. It was total dark as if time was 9-10 pm ! At 5.55 pm, we reached a point where one way go to Double decker root bridge area and one to Jungle Resort where we are to stay today. The green algae in the water, accumulated after flowing down the rocks, giving good visual effect in bright sun. Many families rejoicing here.
At 11.10 am, we started in car after finishing seeing living root bridge.
We did not take breakfast today as surprisingly no outlet in the village had opened in the morning. Most of them were on picnic, it seems.
At 11.45 am, we stopped at ‘Home Grown’ Restaurant on the way. We took Brunch here : Fried rice, 2 eggs, 3 tea. Tea was good. We charged our mobile here. The eating room was a wooden hut raised on platform above marshy water. The view generated by the surroundings with hut in the foreground was so colorful.
At 12.30 pm, we started again.
At 1.00 pm, we passed by an area where canyon / valley was on our left side. Air became cooler. It made a good view and feeling : valley on one side, hills on other side, villages on the way, music blowing from our car cruising sometime at 40-50 kmph when on mountains and 60-70 kmph when in plains.
At 1.30 pm, we reached a point / diversion ( Umtynagar) from where one way go to Shillong 22 km and other to Cherrapunji 28 km. We took way/road to Cherrapunji, which was our itenerary for today and tomorrow.
At 1.45 pm, we passed a point where Zip Lining activity was going on. But we were short of time and it becomes dark here so early, so we had to give it a skip.
At 2.10 pm, we stopped by a spot for viewing Wah Kaba Waterfalls (ticket : Rs. 10/- per person). This spot is called Wah Kaba – Latara Falls viewpoint. We took pics here.
At 2.30 pm, we started again.
At 2.35 pm, a sign board of ‘Sai Mika’ came. From here, there is a narrow road on right hand side going to Dain Thien waterfalls 5-6 km away. But our driver said it is not so good and also dried up during this time. So we dropped the plan to see it and drove ahead.
At 2.40 pm, we reached a diversion on the highway on right hand side for Noh Ka Likai waterfalls 5 km away. We took the said diversion. But this Road was not so good. It was narrow. We were infact now in the region of Cherrapunji (called “Sohra” locally).
At 2.50 pm, we reached Noh Ka Likai waterfalls viewpoint. (Ticket : Rs.20/- per head, parking Rs.40/-). What a magnificent waterfall it was ! mesmerizing. So many tourists, Tourist buses and school children groups were here. Many shops and stalls were selling local wares and souvenirs. There were 3-4 points to view WaterFalls here.
At 3.15 pm, we started again. We returned to the diversion point (from where the route to Noh Ka Likai village and waterfalls started) and took the highway.
At 3.45 pm, we reached another diversion point, one going towards Mawsmai caves, Seven Sister Falls and Eco Village (10 min) and other towards Double root bridge area which was abt 1 hr away. We took the road to Mawsmai caves. I spotted a Water tanki in the shape of a huge football on the way !
At 3.50 pm, we reached Seven Sister Falls viewpoint. But we found it all dried up, but we still took picture for remembrance. There were 2-3 hotels here to stay (parking Rs.20/-).
We started after 10 minutes.
At 4.05 pm, we reached Mawsmai caves tourist point after 5 min drive. (Ticket : Rs.20/- per person, parking Rs.20/-). These are much spacious and wider than Mizoram caves. Even old people were doing it with families. Its length was about 100 mtr ? We entered the caves and came out from the other end. There were lights installed in the caves at few points.
We took tea and biscuits in an outlet here. Sameer took maggi also. I charged my mobile here.
At 4.55 pm, we started from Mawsmai caves. Eco park is also nearby but it was getting darker, so we dropped the idea to see it.
We reached same diversion point where one way go to famous Double root bridge village. From this diversion point, we diverted back to same route/direction from where we came in afternoon from Mawlynnong, to go to Sunshine Wine shop (Govt authorised) 3 km away at Sohra bazar (Cherrapunji bazar). From said shop, we bought Magic Moments Vodka (Green apple flavored) 750 ml for 470/- (in Delhi it is 500/-), Tuborg bear for Sameer for 90x2 =180.
At 6.15 pm, we reached IbanKordor Jungle resort. Here we met the owner’s daughter Ms. Iban. She is pretty young lady having sons 3 yr and 10 yr. She was managing the reception. She was lively and quite hospitable and humble. Her brother name is Korodor. Their father Mr. M.K.War named this resort as IbanKorodor on their names. She told that they started this resort less than a year ago (March 2018) and that they do not have prior experience in this field. But still they have good reviews on TripAdvisor. This was remarkable. She is here as they celebrated her father (the owner) birthday here yesterday, and she would be leaving tomorrow for her matrimonial home. She allotted us a cottage which was pre-booked. Charges : Rs.1500/- per day. This also included room and food for our driver.
At 9 pm, we went to the dining area and took dinner. I had asked them to cook cauliflower, potato and tomato dish in dry mode but they did it with some gravy in chinese dish mode and also made it very spicy. I did not like it, but still ate 1/2 roti (tawa) with it. Took half bowl Mushroom soup as well as tomato soup, then 1 small gulab jamun (ready to eat). As I said earlier, I am very particular about food and did not like the food in this region of India.
At 10.30 p,. we went to our room and went to sleep.
The mobile signal as well as internet was available here.
At 5 am, I woke up as Amit’s snoring, becoming more and more loud, did not allow me to sleep properly. I spent time by completing the tour notes in Google Keep app on my mobile.
While Amit was sleeping, from 6-7 am, I walked around the resort. It was nice quiet place. There was a bridge made of cane and bamboos leading to a hut atop a tree and supported by bamboo pillars, within the resort at the edge/boundary separating it from the jungle. I sat there and saw views around and also did pranayam here for 10 minutes. Then I walked towards the village. After 4 min walk from the resort on kachha raasta, the motarable road (though broken) starts. I noticed vegetables being grown near the resort.
I returned back and took bath.
At 7.30 am, I took breakfast : Tea, Butter toast. Then Amit came and took Poori Subzi. We then took haldi milk (hot). We gossiped with the owner Mr. M.K.War (he had birthday yesterday). He is doing business of Limestone. He told that he purchased 20 acre land 5 year ago for total 16 lakh and put up this resort this year. He also told that Lime stone goes to Bangkadesh by 4 modes :
1. By truck
2. By boat
3. by ropeway
4. by conveyer belt (20 km long!) by French company Lafage.
He told that Limestone is available in plenty in Meghalaya. Infact, limestone which goes to Bangladesh from here for say 2000/- per cum is sold further to India in West Bengal and Tripura for say Rs.3000/- per cum ! This is because labour in Bangladesh is cheaper compared to India and transportation cost from Bangladesh to West Bengal is very cheaper compared to transportation cost from Meghalaya to West Bengal. Business acumen, I would say.
The owner Mr. M.K.War was so humble. Despite owning limestone business and despite being owner of this Resort, he was picking luggage of tourists from their cottage to their car when the tourist asked him if he can arrange someone to pick their luggage to the car ! This is one quality very rare elsewhere. We need to learn and imbibe such qualities. They were functioning with least staff.
At 8.55 am, we started from the Jungle Resort.
Two girls and a man from London were also criss crossing us. One traveller from Germany with professional camera was taking pics throughout the route. His name is Martin, aged 68 years, retired professor of Geography in Germany. He was on 3 months trip to Meghalaya, Bangladesh and Myanmar. He told that he liked Qutab Minar in Delhi very much, better than Taj Mahal. He has been a marathon runner and is amazingly physically fit even at 68 years.
At 11.00 am, we crossed another steel suspension bridge (gates at both ends painted in blue and white stripes). The water in the stream beneath was beautifully blue.
At 11.15 am, we reached Vill Nongriat and passed through it an crossed one small root bridge.
11.25 am : Lo and behold ! we are right there at the entrance of world famous Double Decker Living Root Bridge. (ticket : Rs.20/- per person). This is village Nongriat.
People, mainly youngsters, were sitting and rejoicing here near the stream beneath the Double Decker Bridge. We also took several pics here.
The whole journey to double decker root bridge was down, up, down, up, with first about 30 min being steep decline, and thereafter it was more or less ok walk including forest trail.
Since, we had managed to reach here early and were still feeling the energy left in us to walk more, we decided to walk ahead to Rainbow Falls. We were told that these waterwalls are magnificent and out-of-this-world view and that it would take about an hour from double decker bridge to reach there. We were also told that generally people do not do double decker bridge and Rainbow Falls in a single day (as it is strenuous) and that they stay overnight at some homestay at double decker bridge and then go to Rainbow Falls the next day. However, we decided to complete Rainbow Falls the same day and return back (huuh….it turned out to be a bad decision ….at least for me…as it became too tiring and tested my patience and stamina and stretched me much beyond my body limits).
At 12 pm, we started ahead for Rainbow falls. At 12.15 pm, we crossed steel suspension bridge. At 12.40 pm, the Waterfall was apparently visible but a small chit put by someone on the path was saying that actual site of Rainbow fall is 40 minutes ahead. So, we followed the path but it turned out to be very tough incline and Waterfall was nowhere in sight. We got tired. We sat down and sent Sameer ahead to check if we are on the right path. He called after 25 min on mobile that this is correct path and he has reached the waterfalls and that it is out-of-the-world experience. His words infused energy in us and after 25 minutes rest, we started again. But again, it was a hard trek.
After a strenuous trek from Double Decker root bridge, we finally reached the site of Rainbow waterfalls at about 1.45 pm. It was giant and majestic ! It was so soothing to the eyes. The cool breeze from the waterfall was embracing our skin. A rainbow was being created by the mist of falling waterfall. We savoured Litchi juice, biscuits, chips, omelette at the only shack here. We found the UK girl in lingerie soaking in the sun lying on a huge rock while others were swimming in the lagoon created by falling waterfall. It was a scene directly out of some Hollywood movie.
After resting there for about an hour, at 2.45 pm, we started back from the Rainbow falls.
At 3.50 pm, we reached back Double decker bridge. Here, we filled our water bottle from the stream. We fed glucose biscuits to the fishes in the pond.
At 4 pm, we started from the Double decker bridge back to the parking lot. At 5 pm, it became all dark. The last one hour walk was straight incline. I was literally broken. The stairs (which were cemented) are poorly constructed. Many stairs were just 6 inch in width and many stairs were about 8-10 inch high ! This made getting down and coming up more strenuous unnecessarily.
At 5.50 pm, we reached parking spot where our car was parked.
At 6.20 pm, we returned to the Resort.
I took bath in hot water and changed clothes which were all wet out of perspiration. I was feeling headache. I dropped plan to take vodka today and instead took banana to gain some energy. I spoke to my friend Col. Nadeem over phone and fixed program for late lunch with him tomorrow enroute to Gauhati airport (He is in army and stationed currently in Gauhati).
At 9.20 pm, we took dinner. I took Hot milk and Bread butter toast. At 10.15 pm, me and Amit walked in the resort complex, then sat near the bonfire.
At 10.40 pm, we came to our cottage and slept.
Darrisha is the name of the girl who was serving us in the resort. She was a bubbly girl, does not look like khasi girl, she looks like a Delhite.
At 3.50 pm, we reached back Double decker bridge. Here, we filled our water bottle from the stream. We fed glucose biscuits to the fishes in the pond.
At 4 pm, we started from the Double decker bridge back to the parking lot. At 5 pm, it became all dark. The last one hour walk was straight incline. I was literally broken. The stairs (which were cemented) are poorly constructed. Many stairs were just 6 inch in width and many stairs were about 8-10 inch high ! This made getting down and coming up more strenuous unnecessarily.
At 5.50 pm, we reached parking spot where our car was parked.
At 6.20 pm, we returned to the Resort.
I took bath in hot water and changed clothes which were all wet out of perspiration. I was feeling headache. I dropped plan to take vodka today and instead took banana to gain some energy. I spoke to my friend Col. Nadeem over phone and fixed program for late lunch with him tomorrow enroute to Gauhati airport (He is in army and stationed currently in Gauhati).
At 9.20 pm, we took dinner. I took Hot milk and Bread butter toast. At 10.15 pm, me and Amit walked in the resort complex, then sat near the bonfire.
At 10.40 pm, we came to our cottage and slept.
Darrisha is the name of the girl who was serving us in the resort. She was a bubbly girl, does not look like khasi girl, she looks like a Delhite.
At about 6.50 am, I took a walk on the wooden suspension bridge made of cane and bamboo and got down into the well maintained jungle within the complex and walked on the jungle trail having leaves from trees fallen over it. There were several sheds made of bamboo and thatch having natural wooden benches to sit, relax, enjoy and soak in the surroundings. The trail led to a spot/ view point where one can sit and marvel at the nature and see Bangladesh terrain which is very close by aerially. There was also a play ground area having swings. All these are within the boundary of the resort.
This man MK War is really superb. These all are his own ideas, he told.
You must take this trail to soak in nature and if you want to have feel of a mini trek.
At 7.30 am, we took breakfast. We paid Rs. 4600/- to Hotel owner for 2 nights stay and food and bid good bye to him and his staff. At 8 am, we started from the Resort for Shillong and Gauhati, to eventually catch our evening flight from Gauhati.
At 8.40 am, we reached point of diversion to Mawylnnong and other path to Mawsmai caves. We took road going to Mawlynnong. At 8.47 am, we crossed the Wine shop. We passed by various villages including Mawkdok village (Mawkdok is midway between Sohra and Shillong?). There was a view point here : Dancing clouds. (there is zipline activity also here?)
At 9.30 am, we reached another diversion point : one road goes to Dawki and other to Shillong and Gauhati. We took road to Shillong. At 9.44 am, we passed Highway Shacks Dhaba (13 km from Shillong, where we had taken our brunch on Day 1).
Elephant Falls are amongst the most popular falls in the North-East, situated next to Shillong. The Britishers named this fall so owing to the presence of an elephant-shaped rock on one side of the fall. However, the stone disintegrated and was washed away due to an earthquake in 1897. The breathtaking Elephant falls were referred to as 'Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew' by the local Khasi people, which means 'The Three Step Waterfalls', as these falls consist of three mesmerising falls in succession. Steep steps lead down to the waterfall. The first fall is broad and hidden between trees. The second fall is tamed and almost negligible in winter, when the water level recedes. The third and the most visible waterfall is the tallest with clear water flowing like a sheet of milk on the dark rocks in the backdrop. Out of the three, the third waterfall tends to strike the visitors as the most impressive. However, the steep steps can be too much trouble for kids and elderly folks.
At 10.30 am, we started from Elephant Falls. We visited the Air Force museum nearby (Ticket : Rs.20/- per person). The Air Force Museum in Shillong is a storehouse of the country's defense forces, majorly the Indian Air Force, the brave flying warriors and the defence history. The museum is located in the Upper Shillong area. It houses pictures of Indo-China war as well as Indo-Pakistan war. The museum displays the uniforms worn by the air force pilots, missiles, rockets, miniature models of air crafts and various other exhibits. There is a souvenir shop inside the complex to buy gifts.
At 11.10 am, we started from Air Force Museum. There was a Tea Farm of the Government nearby but we were not interested to explore it, due to paucity of time.
At 11.26 am, we reached Air Force Station, Laitkor Peak. It is entry point for Shillong Peak. From this gate, one has to go by car about 1.5 km to reach Shillong peak. Sadly, Shillong peak is closed on Wednesday (as informed by the sepoy at the entrance gate) and today happened to be Wednesday. So, we missed the chance to enjoy view of the town from Shillong Peak. At an height of 6449 ft above sea level, Shillong Peak is the highest point of Shillong. It offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire city, the Himalayas, its waterfalls as well as of the Bangladesh plains. A telescope is available for tourists to get a bird's eye view. Trekking up to this semi-circular Shillong Peak is highly recommended for the best views but it is often bounded by heavy fog. It is said that Shillong gets its name from the Shillong Peak itself. Regional tales tell that the patron deity 'Leishyllong' resides in the hills and protects the city from all evils. The U Shulong site at the top of the peak is sacred and every spring, a ritual is organised there. The Shillong Peak is situated at the air force base and features a radar station of the Indian Air Force. Due to security reasons, heavy checking is done at the gates, and tourists are asked to deposit their cameras.
At 11.29 am, we started for Nadeem’s place near Gauhati. We drove on Shillong-Gauhati road, and passed Mawlai, Nongkwar in shilling, etc. At 12.22 pm, we passed by Umiam Lake view point (which we enjoyed on Day 1). At 1.30 pm, we passed through Distt Nongpho. At 1.50 pm, we crossed the Toll gates (Toll : Rs.65/-)
At 2.45 pm, we reached Narangi Military Station, Panjabari Road, near Khanapara, Gauhati. Nadeem is working here in ECHS. We met him there and we then went with him to Golf club within the cantonment. We took beer add snacks there, followed by lunch, finishing with the tasty moong dal halwa. We sat in the open on 1st floor. It was such a beautiful view all around, with Golf Course (called The Golf Ball) in the background.
At 4.45 pm, we bide good bye to Nadeem and started from the cantonment.
At 5.50 pm, we reached Gauhati Airport. We checked in and waited for boarding after clearing security check. In the meantime, we charged our mobile. At 7.50 pm, we entered the aircraft. At 8.20 pm, our flight took off.
At 10.55 pm, our flight touched down at Delhi airport. Saying good bye to Amit, I reached home at 11.45 pm.
Another beautiful exploration trip, thus, came to an end.
1. Anyone wanting to travel in Assam or Meghalaya or even in Arunachal Pradesh, I strongly recommend to avail services of Sameer. He is helpful and economical too. He had a Maruti Alto and also has Swift Dezire car.
2. Meghalaya cars have ML registration number plates.
3. Girls here (in Meghalaya) generally run all business and men take care of family.
4. Every 2nd and 3rd car in Meghalaya is Maruti : Alto, Maruti 800, swift, Dezire. Ertiga, Ignis, Baleno can also be seen. Alto is no.1 vehicle here. Its a land of small cars.
